I don't know about DAP Caulking (seems it is a brand and not a specific product so I couldn't look it up. I'm from Australia so we don't have it here).

Just make sure the filler you use is flexible. A lot of basic caulking dries are and will just rip drywall off or flex the sheet instead of stretching. There are flexible gap fillers that are silicone based which would be better. Bathroom ones are available in white and a mould resistant otherwise there are paintable flexible ones out there too.

Just get the right colour spackle. For tiny holes you don't need to sand prime or paint.

I agree, I used much of the methodology in my recent build but it is still cheaper.

Have you worked with the lightweight steel studs? They make a 2x4 look solid af. Steel light framing is awesome when it is well engineered but if it is done wrong it can twist and crumple into a heap.

Well "Cheap" framing doesn't sound quite as nice on a quote.

Metric doesn't use 50cm as a common spacing. It is all 300, 450, 600, 900, etc. basically using 1200 mm increments a base metric and then using factors of that.

That ain't no metric layout. 450mm is.

Correct. The water helps hold it upright too.

No, it is an artificat of designing for a high sucess probability. For a simple example, let's say you want a robot for a 1 year mission with 90% probability of it lasting two years. You design the robot so that it has a failure rate of 5% per year. As a result it is highly likely (~80%) that it will last four years or twice the required mission length.

Obviously this is a very simplified example, but hopefully it illustrates the point that you cannot easily determine the exactly lifespan of a piece of equipment.

Not much air on mars, sorta why the wind isn't the best at cleaning. Also the dust is actually somewhat stuck as it has a static charge.