GrottyKnight

GrottyKnight t1_ixv391g wrote

So, as others have mentioned there is also usually an in line fuse that will cut power. Usually that will kill the whole unit though. You may be able to see it, usually through some vents above the control. Sometimes they aren't clear glass though and can't tell if it's blown without testing. Generally you can get to that without getting too close to the high voltage capacitor but do be very mindful.

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GrottyKnight t1_ixv1pyi wrote

Hm. Can't find a wiring diagram foe that model but I'll try again when I get back to the shop later. Also, without eyes on the unit I'll do a lot of guesswork here haha but I'm bored.

I am also going to say this because i must: If you dont know what you are doing, PLEASE do not open the case and start messing with things. MICROWAVES CAN KILL YOU ESPECIALLY OLDER ONES. The HV Capacitors and transformers can put out thousands of volts EVEN WHEN UNPLUGGED.

generally microwaves, especially older ones, are pretty simple. There's a high voltage side (3 or 4 pieces that actually handle the "cooking") and a low voltage side. It sounds like your low voltage side is working. Lights, buttons, etc, but there's no cooking happening. I have a fun microwave detector I use but the simplest thing you can do is soak a paper towel, wring it out, toss it in for 45 seconds. Should be hot and steamy. If no heat, then your high voltage circuit is the fault. Ifnit was working fine before the power surge, then the door switches are likely fine. Now this is all assuming we are getting correct voltage from the wall. Also, don't run the microwave without something in it like a cup of water. When it runs, do you hear a vibration, or loud buzzing start a few seconds after starting?

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