CD is a known penalty for breaking. T-Bills either can't be broken or if bought through brokerage, sold on the secondary market. T-Bills avoid state income tax.

I'm not against diversification so tell me what the negative of holding GBP vs dollar and why GBP vs another currency.

While I doubt the hyperinflation of the dollar happening, it would have global consequences. The largest GDP in the world with #2 and #3 as the largest foreign US debt holders. The US has the largest military budget. There's special relations with England is not part of the EU. While I could see the steady decline of the US in the world, a fast decline affects everyone.

Do you have 16k? Do you have 10k? If no to both, keep making payments.

Get quotes on the 100/300 and the 250/500 from scrap places.

Do you run a business? If no then you shouldn't.

Get a good job. Ideally, that job would require training like a trade. While there are some good job that don't, the likelihood of being replaced by cheaper labor or automation is higher.

Pay in full otherwise you're just paying a lot in interest.

Most banks and credit unions offer very little return on CDs, money market, savings and checking. If they offer high yield like 3%+, look at the limitations and requirements. Those may be perfectly acceptable to you or not.

It's not a hard and fast rule, but I tend to look at it as banks/credit unions and financial institutions. The financial institution side is were you'll grow your money.

Most "debt relief" is to tank your credit badly enough and not pay until the companies are willing to settle.

Have you looked at taking each portion and looking at how much it would take to pay off in 5 years? Can each of you afford that share?

Are there kids involved?

You've separated emotionally. You need to separate financially.

You pay $975.85 and get $1000 in 6 months.

Of course, you're buying before the auction so the price isn't set.

Do you currently have other sources of income? Do you have other retirement accounts? What do you want to do with this money?

There's a lot of details in a decision like this one.

18% is high, but 560 is pretty low. You could try to get a better rate from a credit union.

Considering you're probably putting on 50k+ miles a year, I would hope you're getting reimbursed or something.

I live in a low cost insurance area and my company dropped some discounts and there was a general inflation increase. They stated none of this was directly related to my vehicles or history.

Tires are the only thing (or at least should be) touching the ground. They are a main component in stopping and staying on the road. They are a vital point in avoiding an accident which can harm your vehicle, you and your wallet.

Besides traction as factor, there's wear. You won't get the same number of miles out of two different tires with different wear ratings.

If you're saying you spend $400 every 4 years, would you spend $50 or even $100 a year to be safer? It's not something that I would try to save on.

Find a tire that fits your criteria first then look at price.

Using your credit card doesn't build credit

Unfortunately, it's as easy (and hard) as spend less and make more. List out your expenses and where your money goes. See what can be reduced or removed. Even reducing your grocery bills temporarily.

A common " second job" is selling plasma. The places around here are at almost $1000 the first month.