Are you sure your float stop is adjusted properly? Water should stop before it reaches the overflow.

Fishing line to a wall hook maybe?

The GFI will protect your equipment by killing power if any voltage leaks to ground. The ground wire is just an alternative patch back to the main board bonded to the neutral. Thus its not "grounded", but will be disconnected in the event any leak to ground is detected.

How are you measuring voltage on the neutral? One prong on the neutral, the other on the ground? Or are you using a voltage sensor?

Take the lamp out, and with the switch on, check if the socket has power. If you read 120v at the socket, it's the lamp. Or the metal plate at the bottom of the fixture isn't making contact with the lamp.

Why is your neutral reading 120? There should be no voltage on your neutral unless its part of a closed circuit. Are you sure your wires? Older houses did not pull neutrals to switches and often used a white wire in the pair as a switched or hot leg. You may want to post a couple pictures.

Ground wire is not the problem. Switch should only control the Hot wire.
1)Do you have 120v at the line side of your switch?
2)Do you have 120v on the load side of the switch when it's on? 3)Do you have continuity of the hot conductor from switch to your fixture? 4)Are you sure your fixture works? 5) are all your connections secure and properly done?

Glass and plastic is most likely one assembly. The whole thing will pull down with metal spring clips holding it up. If it's been there a while, might have to get something thin to work around the edges and break it free.

I'm Thinking photo cell. Meaning it will turn on and off with sun/no sun instead of motion.

If you have cabinets below your sinks, keep them open. Pipe can be frozen and not burst.

Can you put weather insulation stripping on the lid portion?

I use a couple 120v computer style fans plugged into a 12v activated relay plug strip. When my audio receiver is turned on, it turns the fans on. Can also put them on a traditional resistive dimmer to slow them down for noise if needed.

You can split wire an outlet. There are metal tabs you break off. Take a circuit to a switch. Tap the circuit with one constant hot(black) and one thru the switch (red). Run 3wire to your outlets. Wire half the outlet to the red and half to the black. Youll then have outlets that are "split wired" and half will be switched and the other half constant.

Decora style. Also run coax and ethernet to each room from a single location while you have the opportunity. Multiple if the room is able to be set up multiple ways. Outlets should be every 12' along the walls. I also like to add half switched outlets even if you go permanently installed overhead lights and a fan. While you are at it, interconnected 120v smoke detectors (assuming you are in USA) run them off a circuit connected to often used lighting.

The Amazing Chicken from Sesame Garden on Mt Washington is fantastic.

Read the installation manual of the dishwasher. It will show the available/suggested areas it should be located.

Where is it leaking? And are you possibly over tightening it?

Then if you break that one, you know you use it enough to spend money on a good one.

Don't worry about the gaps. Your finish floor will cover those up. Find where the squeaks are and use some screws and sink them thru the boards into the joists. Even if you find them all now, new ones will show up when the weather changes, just keep that in mind.

Is that the subfloor wood or the finish flooring? It looks more like subfloor.

Do you have any dent/scratch places? Or any appliance outlet stores around you? If you want one that lasts a long time, get them with as few options and settings as possible. Just my experience and two cents.

Do you have both hor and cold water lines hooked up? If only cold, are you washing cold/cold? Washer might be assuming it's getting warm water also and cutting flow from the cold. Just a thought.

I mean screw them back into the female thread part. Not put them loose in the holes of the piece being removed.

I used "M and M Cabinets LLC" for my kitchen and Mike was awesome to work with.

It takes longer, but, after you take a piece off, put the screws back into the holes they screw into. They way when you go to put the piece back on, you'll be sure to have to take all the screws back out that have to hold the piece on and have them right there ready to go.