Maplelongjohn

Maplelongjohn t1_j9p7qx4 wrote

In many markets it's getting there.

12$ 1/8 oz happy hour special is way cheaper than anything I've ever found on "the street"

And ease of access...

Stopping by a random dispensary on the way home is more likely than your "guy" living along your way home.

And relative Peace of mind knowing the product isn't being grown with unregulated use of illegal pesticides (a known issue of black/ grey market)

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Maplelongjohn t1_j8rv5yt wrote

Nice shot.

It is so difficult to convey the beauty of the Hoh in a pic...

As for over use, I grew up on the OP back in the 90s and visited often... I was out there In 5/'18 and back 5/20 it seemed like a herd of elephants had moved in between those visits....

Like grossly trampled off trail evidence everywhere, litter up a thousand percent....

Sad...

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Maplelongjohn t1_j64v3ap wrote

I imagine you can't even shut off your own unit without the whole building and thusly that assembly of stops and fittings you have there ...

I'd just add another add a t for the fridge and be done with it

Or get ready for a barely reasonable to quite large plumbers bill...

Chicago? I'd guess from the brass drain assembly.

Get an outlet cover on the electric, no reason for that.

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Maplelongjohn t1_j6456r2 wrote

Sometimes the pipe threads/ end of pipe can be removed with an easy out, if not that's where the plumber and a repipe comes into play.

Likely need to open the wall. What's on the other side of this wall?

Negative on that laundry.

But if you have a plumber come they can assess the situation and make recommendations.

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Maplelongjohn t1_j63y2ip wrote

Now if anything goes wrong what your concerned about is the 2 pipes coming out of the walls.

These are probably corroded and mostly clogged up. The threads might stay in the valves when you go to remove it.

You may be able to unthread the pipe from the wall and replace that.

The pipe may snap off inside the wall as soon as you touch anything, and necessitate opening the wall and running new pipe to the sink.

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Maplelongjohn t1_j63xjib wrote

What I would do

Wait til Monday because an emergency plumber on the weekend cost 2x.

Shut off water

Drain system

Careful remove those valves. Unscrew the flex lines. Remove everything coming up from the old valves. Make sure to use 2 wrenches to counter hold the fixture so you don't accidentally snap anything off.

Remove the old valves holding the pipe coming out of the wall. Hopefully the threads stay on the pipe .

If that all comes apart without incident you've pretty much done it.

You need to verify the size of the pipe from the wall- is it 1/2 or 3/8" NPT (national pipe thread)

Find new quarter turn stops that fit that pipe(1/2 FPT(female pipe thread) x 3/8 compression is common)

You can find bullhead stops as well, so each fixture has a valve. 1/2 NPT x 3/8comp x 3/8 comp for dishwasher and likely one with a 3/8 & 1/4 comp for cold side.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-Brass-1-2-in-Fip-x-3-8-in-Compression-Quarter-Turn/1001852370

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-Brass-1-2-in-FIP-x-3-8-in-1-4-in-OD-Compression-Quarter-Turn-Dual-Shut-off-Valve/1001852394

Now that would work to get you back to where you are now,. looking for a place to connect the fridge.

You can use a compression T https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dial-Brass-Evaporative-Cooler-Water-Hook-Up-Kit/3092871

But I'd use 1/4" copper tubing to connect that tee to the stop.

Then you'll have 2 @1/4 compression and one 3/8 compression fitting for sink, water filter and fridge.

The hot side you'll have 2 @ 3/8 for the faucet and the dishwasher

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Maplelongjohn t1_j5yx9d7 wrote

Those old ass valves are likely junk.

That's why they added more valves.

If you are going to move that DW T you're going to have to shut off the main.

Any threaded pipe needs pipe dope.

Compression fittings (like dishwasher line and faucet lines) don't need anything as they are a mechanical seal and they'll have a rubber gasket in the end of the line

The dishwasher should have a separate shut off. If you are doing it,do it right and add one.

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Maplelongjohn t1_j5q378v wrote

Wow someone didn't have a plan at all there.

Those vents should be sealed up, a long with any other penetrationns up there.

However the roofing lifespan may suffer from a hot roof.

Back to someone not having a plan

Do you have an ERV/HRV?

If you want a tight envelope you can cause mold issues. An audit by energy company may be worth it.

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Maplelongjohn t1_j5pr61a wrote

It looks like you could possibly do the 2 furnace circuits on the one side and the 2 GFCI outlet circuit on the other to open a duplex spot.

All the other 120 circuits appear to be afci.

Otherwise maybe you could get a 15-60-60-15 quad breaker and only do the one side.(I know square D has them that style)

But if you have the physical space nearby to add a sub panel that may be a better option long term.

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Maplelongjohn t1_iy02aj0 wrote

If you shut off the stop to the sink you can unhook the supply line and attach here

However this is not the same size threading as a toilet valve so any included adapter will not work, a trip to the hardware store should get you sorted.

Bring the included adapter and this picture

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Maplelongjohn t1_ivoo6rc wrote

Shims are ok as long as they can support the load.

A cedar shingle will crush under relatively low load.

Steel won't crush if you can source it.

Plywood is also good but would likely need to be treated if it's exterior.

In the states one can buy synthetic shims that would likely suffice for a deck load.

Also cutting your own shim stock from treated lumber is an option.

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