The Chicago Electric rotary tools from Harbor Freight work great if you only need it for the odd project here and there. $25 for the tool and a set of attachments, plus then you have one on hand for the future. I've used one and a few name brand Dremels over the years and it really is just as good (even if it may not last as long).

May be worth picking up an actual Dremel brand reinforced cutoff wheel to go with it, though. Those things chew through anything and take a real beating before breaking.

I would think a cooling rack or baking tray insert would indeed be the best option. Those come in stainless, so no need to worry about coatings or caps, so if you can't find the exact size, you should be good to just cut one down to size and debur/smooth the cut ends without worrying about rust down the line.

I'm gonna disagree with all the "it's ruined" posts. It may not be "the right way" or look 100%, but wood glue and clamps then some wood putty (or even better, Bondo) to smooth out the rough spots will get you 90% of the way there.

If you're good with your putty (try using the edge of a putty knife to continue the fake "grain" lines) and sanding, you may not even be able to tell once it's painted.

You absolutely can replace a 2-prong outlet with a 3-prong GFCI marked "no equipment ground." That's code-compliant in most of the US.

As others have said, though, you still won't get the benefit of a proper ground, just the ability to plug a 3-prong cable in and a degree of personal shock protection.

Is your position that stranded Romex or MC is the same product as stranded appliance or lamp cord as used in the OP's Instructable simply because they're both "stranded?" Is your position also that the UL listing covers an application that will subject the terminations to strain or the supply cable to regular flexing?

I'm willing to bet "homemade power strip" isn't a covered use case under the UL listing, either.

I'm in awe of the mental gymnastics involved in twisting this DIwhy into "100% UL listed" territory because the word "stranded" can apply to multiple products.

Absolutely. As you accumulate wear, tear, and wood movement, carriage bolts will let you tighten and adjust to keep everything plumb, straight, level, and square.

Not only have I never experienced "all stranded" in commercial wiring, I would refuse to work with an electrician who ever tried to pass that off.

That people (read: corner-cutting contractors) do it doesn't change the fact that it is not the intended purpose.

An outlet was not designed to be supplied by a stranded wire, especially stranded wire subject to constant flexing and strain. Full stop.

An outlet is not intended to be supplied with stranded wire. The terminals are not the right type for that kind of connection.

Add to that the questionable "strain relief" used and these things are just breaker testers waiting to happen.

Absolutely this. Depending on the geometry of the room and the rest of the walls, might even want to try an angled frame the full length of the wall with an undercut piece of drywall, mimicking a slanted attic ceiling if you don't want a random "box" in a corner.