It's the little shits that screw up my drive thru order.

4 feet should be good for all but the very north of Wiscowsin. I built a shed the same way, gravel with concrete over.

If it's too wet the holes will have water in them. That will be a problem. I had to move all my poles over 3 feet after drilling about 10 of them and letting them sit overnight. The next morning we were screwed. Even tried pumping the water out. They just refilled.

Don't just auger your holes down. Let the auger fill with dirt. pull it out and dump it off to the side. Otherwise the dirt will be nothing but in the way when you set your poles.

The Harbor Freight cement mixer was good enough for the 25 holes I filled. I still use it from time to time. I did have to blow the motor out with air to getting going again once.

Something like this makes hanging things a breeze.

https://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-ELL1002-Mounting-Capability-Batteries/dp/B00PD49I8I

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/pipe-fittings/polypipe-fittings/1-sidr-19-100-psi-potable-water-poly-pipe/11230/p-1444431563081-c-8570.htm?tid=617ddd94-2290-4d2f-889d-50df643e1f8a&ipos=10&exp=false

It's a Menards link, they sell it at most big box home improvement stores. It uses simple plastic shove in connectors.

1 inch black plastic pipe. We use it on the farm for water out to pastures. Cheap and pretty tough.

I can't see them ever winning.

Have you tried or have access to a Thermacell? They work great for almost all bugs, made for keeping mosquitos away.

https://www.thermacell.com/

With the rubber gasket in there, normally a little more than hand tight. I just put a bidet in my bathroom. Same joint leaked for a few drips. I bumped it a little with the wrench. One more drip and it stopped. I reused the plastic pipe that was there. It was a bit crooked, I'm sure that's what caused my issue.

Have you tried a garage door shop? They stock many springs and usually will sell them for DIY.

Oh and here I thought it was get drunk and go for double penetration. I guess I read that wrong.

Go up in the attic and look. Measure between 2, the spacing should be the same. Use the location to measure out to where you want to put the projector. Knowing about where the joist is, use the stud finder or tap on the ceiling and find the more solid sound.

It's made to help seal steel pieces together. Look at the 3M brands.

It's probably not where you want to learn to weld. Metal, screws and caulk will work just fine. I would use a seam sealer caulk for automotive use.

Looks like all I get are hand-me-downs.

It's all fairly simple to do. What's the amperage of the panel in the garage? Should be a switch at the top that says 60 or maybe 100 amps (might be at the bottom). How many open spots in the panel. What tools do you want to run in the shop. Black and Decker sells a good book on electrical wiring. That's what I started with. I just wired my entire shop myself, meter base, panel, 5 ton AC, lights, welder outlets, everything.

Insulation comes down to how much do you need and buying the right width to fit between your studs. I prefer kraft faced using a staple hammer.

You need a second coat. Otherwise you will create the opposite effect basically. You have darker spots where you touched it up. The good news is a second coat is usually a second coat goes much faster.

put some old pallets on the floor. You want a little air circulation under there.

If there insulation behind the fiberboard, I'd be inclined to just leave it. If it has asbestos in it that's the cheapest and easiest. It's a fair insulator too. I hate fiberboard. No real reason, I just do. lol If you take it off you have to do something with it. It's made not to burn worth a darn. Dumpsters are expensive.

The electrical presents some interesting challenges. You can move the boxes out by cutting around the fiberboard and moving them or extend the boxes. Depending on who wired it you may have enough wire to extend them. Murphy's law says some of the wires will be way short, always!

If you take the fiberboard off you could move the wires in the exposed conduit into the walls and clean that up. That's a factor to consider. I only saw the 1 section of conduit.

There's not a wrong way to go. It's really your choice. Just because I have an opinion, doesn't make me right. Hopefully, I'm given you somethings to consider.

I'd drywall over the top of the fiber board if you can. Are there any outlets and switches you'd have to deal with?

You can hang the drywall yourself and find a drywaller to mud and tape it. I had a guy mud and tape my garage for $300. Worth every penny. I talked to him before I started drywalling so it was the way he wanted it for mudding.

As with most trades having cold beer around helps.

Push it into the edge of the bottom seal. It will be fine both of my garage doors are that way.

Buy pipe insulation. cut it down to the size and length you need and push it in the seal at the bottom of the door. Cost you less than $10 and you'll have extra. You could also use a pool noddle and do the same thing.

Try a wrap or 2 of thread tape on the screw.

Can you pop the latch with a thin wire, credit card or small screw driver? If it's an interior door the latch could open easily. Try sliding different things in there to see if the latch releases.