What you suggesting is sounds to be the right solution.

On a side note I didn't mean to rewire the sensor itself but to simply connect it after the wall switch. That way it can be overriden by the switch, but only to turn it off, not to make it stay on.

Sometimes English is a struggle ;)

Yeah, I've seen. I've got led lamps with built in daylight and motion sensors, rather cheap. I don't need them to stay on for longer periods so I just left it as is.

I believe You'd need a second set of cables or use third (ground) cable as a last resort.

If you connect the sensor to the switch you will be able to turn on/off the light but it will auto turn off after set period of time and go into motion sensing mode. That's how it works in my case anyway. Downside is I have to turn the switch off and back on to turn on the light.

Yes, rather easy. Rewire the sensor so it's connected through a wall switch.

Oh I know, I've done mine. They were covered with some sort of gummy paint that clogged sanding pad 5 second after putting a new one. Took me like a week of sanding a single flight. Even though wood is just pine I think It was worth it though.

Thing with covering old treads with new ones is that you'll raise the height of the first step and lower the last. Not a big issue but may look awkward. Second issue is that raisers will still be visible so you may end up sanding them anyway. Same goes for stringers.

If You want to replace the treads You can pretty much replace the whole stairs because of the amount of work necessary to do it. Stringers, treads and raisers are parts of a whole structure, rather hard to disassemble where they are.

Trimming treads and putting 2x2s is a good and easy option imo. Stairs will look better.

I'd try sanding the whole stairs and, if they look fine stain or paint them.

Like it is now it will always clog, that gravel works like a filter catching all the dirt.

French drain will help to some extent. The soil/gravel over it should be below the level of the path so the water doesn't spill over the edge.

Other solution would be to put a smooth half pipe along the path down to the drain, without filling it with gravel (some big stones if wife insists). Water has to flow freely. Drain will clog so it will have to be cleaned on regular basis.

Boxes with covers. There's tons of those so it's not hard to find cheap ones that will fit and fill the shelves. Added bonus is that you can store items you use with each other and be able to pick them when needed in one reach.

If not, thin cheapest class plywood may be a solution. I'd go boxes though.

You can also look for used furniture. People quite often give it for free in really good condition. You get free shelves, someone gets rid of unneeded stuff and you're saving the environment. Win,win,win.

LoL, l wish I had these doing mine. Damn, in fact I wish I had them now just for fun.

I've been in a similar situation with my basement. Cracking thin layer of concrete straight on the soil. I removed all the concrete, dug out the soil to fit proper, insulated floor and gain some height and poured the concrete. Basement only had small windows but, since I was doing the whole house, I turned one of them into external door with stairs. A lot of work but best decision ever.

To answer the question. The main issue with lack of external door is getting rid of old concrete and soil underneath and it looks like you have to do it because of limited height. When this is done pouring concrete is a breeze as it gets mixed outside and pumped inside with a pipe (through a window). It's one of those jobs that are better/cheaper done by a pro instead of diying. Putting pavers after removing old concrete would be pointless imo.

Oh, no doubt about that. It just looks that way.

Can't resist the feeling those are two different pictures. Amazing scenery though.

Pure magic.

Sanitary silicone and since You're at it just do everything. It'll save You from doing it again for few years.

Siphon is the part that prevents air from the sewage coming inside the house. Would be best if You googled it as I would have a hard time describing it in English today. Look for a shower siphon.

My grand grandma used to say "better be an idiot for five minutes than whole life". Asking questions to learn is not idiocy ;)

I'd take a closer look at the drain/siphon and check if the gaskets hold. Had the same issue, redid all supply pipe connections like a mad man (to no effect) just to find out it was a faulty siphon (screw holding it to the tub was too loose and I couldn't tighten it because of a broken thread).

You can get metal drywall anchors with a hook or a bare plastic anchor plus separate hook to screw in. Both should be fine but imo first option is better.

Wall materials, especially drywall are hygroscopic so the stains may be caused by water from below. Doesn't mean you have leaking siphon, just there is such a possibility. Doesn't hurt to check though

Judging by the photos You have issues with cracked/shrunk silicone and I'd bet on it being the main problem.

Door is far better than a curtain. I'd clean the door and reseal it properly. I'd also check if the drain isn't an issue. I've recently had similar issue and it turned out to be the cracked siphon under the shower.