Raul_McCai t1_jd5ilc3 wrote

you joke. My first house was also my training ground. I learned construction plumbing, electrical, roofing, rough and finish, along with sill work in that one monstrous old Victorian with 15 foot ceilings two floors & an attick that could house a small Vietnamese village.

For the electrical I copied what I saw. most of the wiring had to be replaced as it was exposed peg and post. I put Boston loops all throughout that building.

So glad the statute of limitations has expired.


Raul_McCai t1_jd3c2ea wrote

stranded-to-solid is best done with a Taped WAGO, or a bus bar with crimped U or Ring connectors, or with crimped spade or barrel connectors. The idea is each type of conductor has its own fastening mechanism, since there is no good option to put them together in one fastener.

If I can't do one of the above, I prefer to solder the connection, wire nut it (or insulated crimp), tape it, and then put it in a grounded isolation box, like any metal housing.

The thing about WAGOs is that they are subject to being opened accidentally. It isn't easy, but I've had it happen to me. So I tape them.

Oh the less costly imitators of WAGO are garbage, don't buy any of them to use on your home.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9jJqSGMB5g https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WschUxip-4w


Raul_McCai t1_j9toxxi wrote

A hydrogen peroxide cleanser won't risk etching the grout. But before peroxide cleaners came along people just mixed bleach and water and went to town with a brush.

The fact of the concrete is irrelevant.


Raul_McCai t1_j6kjmp2 wrote

you will probably get away with what you are doing. But don't make a habit of it. Sooner or later you would find the limits the structure can handle and ten it collapses.

I know guy who did just that. his house collapsed in on him.

Properly speaking, you should put a header and sill plate in.


Raul_McCai t1_j6kd4tw wrote

there's no glass down there. Can't guess why you are doing that to hook up a solar panel. You are ruining a beautiful door, for what a friggin extension cord? Rain Water WILL get into the core of the door after you do that.

You electrician will happily put a NEMA 4 hook up outside the house for you to plug your solar into and even run a line from there to wherever you want.


Raul_McCai t1_j2nwygi wrote

I am assuming this is a 120 VAC line and the bulbs have a circuit in them that conditions the electricity to the LED's needs.

So - - Probably a hell of a lot of them. What's the Forward voltage of the LEDs?

The Kelven is irrelevant. In fact all those other numbers are irrelevant.
One thing I've learned dimming LEDS is that you need (at least you used to) a conventional load on a conventional dimmer. It can be a s little as a 15 Watt bulb but the dimmers need to see a regular load od they won't shut down and will flicker. I haven't had any experience with the newer dimmers that are made for just LED loads. Leutron makes some


Raul_McCai t1_j2dosap wrote

any brand of bits will g fit any brand of drill/driver. The hexagonal bodies are standardized.

But when I referenced the two brand names I was referring to manual hand held drivers

For example, in the amazon page ( infra) there are any number of driver bits made by wiha, and you san see that there are manual handles plus they will fit any hex drive impact drill/driver doesn't matter if it's Dewalt, Riobi, or Milwaukee they are all the same.



Raul_McCai t1_j2bphk8 wrote

OK Pro tip

Pull it all out and start over up a few inches.

Get torqx drive screws often called "star drive"

I won't use anything else - ever - if I can get away with it and I usually can.

Get a torqx driver for your drill or just a manual T handle driver (don't buy junk - ever) Bondhus or Wiha brand are the best. Star Drive bits for a power drill come in different sizes unlike Slotted or Phillips drive screws. Star drive screws don't cam out, they drive more cleanly and easily. They are so much better than anything else.

You can get torqx drive bits and screws at the BORG or any hardware store or online everywhere.


Raul_McCai t1_iy4ijvq wrote

looks like once you start you will find that there are way more issues than you can see right now.

I think you will be replacing the whole thing.

Pro tip: Be ever so careful when removing the carriages so as to preserve them to use to lay out the new ones ( unless you want a different step pattern).

Use PT for all of it you might be able to reuse those treads. Might.