peel up a little corner somewhere that it doesn't show. It's likely just an applied covering that can be replaced.

If it is vinyl You Can repair it Google Vinyl Repair. There are services that do it and you can buy a kit https://www.amazon.com/3M-08579-Leather-Vinyl-Repair/dp/B0058WXNOK

live with it - - - or replace the door and frame. And get a good one. That looks like Builder-grade garbage.
You can weatherstrip that til you are blue I rather suspect that it's a lost cause.

you joke. My first house was also my training ground. I learned construction plumbing, electrical, roofing, rough and finish, along with sill work in that one monstrous old Victorian with 15 foot ceilings two floors & an attick that could house a small Vietnamese village.

For the electrical I copied what I saw. most of the wiring had to be replaced as it was exposed peg and post. I put Boston loops all throughout that building.

So glad the statute of limitations has expired.

stranded-to-solid is best done with a Taped WAGO, or a bus bar with crimped U or Ring connectors, or with crimped spade or barrel connectors. The idea is each type of conductor has its own fastening mechanism, since there is no good option to put them together in one fastener.

If I can't do one of the above, I prefer to solder the connection, wire nut it (or insulated crimp), tape it, and then put it in a grounded isolation box, like any metal housing.

The thing about WAGOs is that they are subject to being opened accidentally. It isn't easy, but I've had it happen to me. So I tape them.

Oh the less costly imitators of WAGO are garbage, don't buy any of them to use on your home.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9jJqSGMB5g https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WschUxip-4w

A hydrogen peroxide cleanser won't risk etching the grout. But before peroxide cleaners came along people just mixed bleach and water and went to town with a brush.

The fact of the concrete is irrelevant.

you will probably get away with what you are doing. But don't make a habit of it. Sooner or later you would find the limits the structure can handle and ten it collapses.

I know guy who did just that. his house collapsed in on him.

Properly speaking, you should put a header and sill plate in.

there's no glass down there. Can't guess why you are doing that to hook up a solar panel. You are ruining a beautiful door, for what a friggin extension cord? Rain Water WILL get into the core of the door after you do that.

You electrician will happily put a NEMA 4 hook up outside the house for you to plug your solar into and even run a line from there to wherever you want.

> Dimmers don't work by limiting the number of watts. They work by reducing the AC voltage going to the lights.

That might be an old rheostat dimmer. Modern ones turn the power on and off at a rate so fast you don't see it to produce the dimming effect.

I am assuming this is a 120 VAC line and the bulbs have a circuit in them that conditions the electricity to the LED's needs.

So - - Probably a hell of a lot of them. What's the Forward voltage of the LEDs?

The Kelven is irrelevant. In fact all those other numbers are irrelevant.
One thing I've learned dimming LEDS is that you need (at least you used to) a conventional load on a conventional dimmer. It can be a s little as a 15 Watt bulb but the dimmers need to see a regular load od they won't shut down and will flicker. I haven't had any experience with the newer dimmers that are made for just LED loads. Leutron makes some

any brand of bits will g fit any brand of drill/driver. The hexagonal bodies are standardized.

But when I referenced the two brand names I was referring to manual hand held drivers

For example, in the amazon page ( infra) there are any number of driver bits made by wiha, and you san see that there are manual handles plus they will fit any hex drive impact drill/driver doesn't matter if it's Dewalt, Riobi, or Milwaukee they are all the same.

https://www.amazon.com/wiha-driver-bits/s?k=wiha+driver+bits

OK Pro tip

Pull it all out and start over up a few inches.

Get torqx drive screws often called "star drive"

I won't use anything else - ever - if I can get away with it and I usually can.

Get a torqx driver for your drill or just a manual T handle driver (don't buy junk - ever) Bondhus or Wiha brand are the best. Star Drive bits for a power drill come in different sizes unlike Slotted or Phillips drive screws. Star drive screws don't cam out, they drive more cleanly and easily. They are so much better than anything else.

You can get torqx drive bits and screws at the BORG or any hardware store or online everywhere.

Why not finish driving the screws the old fashioned way; the way billions of people did for centuries? With a hand held screwdriver?

​

Pro-tip rub wax on your screws for easier screwing

I should think you could get a butyl (gasket material) seal that will fill the void and then use silicone to lock that in place and seal it all up

what is under that floor?

Ohh boy that's a fortunate thing

look for the rotting lumber that has to exist subsequent to all that water.

Elizabeth???? Ms Holmes? Is that you?

run a cord from another GFCI outlet and see if they trip that one too, If so it's the lights

1. leave the gap you already know why

2. dust well you already know about it so you answered your own question

3. Concrete makes tons of dust. I wish I sealed my concrete first.

any epoxy will do. Be sure there is lots of thread engagement. If you have to undo it a torch heating it to 250F or higher will degrade the epoxy.

Them Pee-cuts'll get ya every time

looks like once you start you will find that there are way more issues than you can see right now.

I think you will be replacing the whole thing.

Pro tip: Be ever so careful when removing the carriages so as to preserve them to use to lay out the new ones ( unless you want a different step pattern).

Use PT for all of it you might be able to reuse those treads. Might.

from your description I deduce that you lack the necessary vernacular to articulate the situation with any clarity so how about a couple of pictures?

> Are expanding plastic wall anchor ls not a thing in the us? For a pot Rack? That'd be a big error

> What would be an appropriate anchor? Depends on the weight of the final pot racks pots and all.