I use tidal for streaming, so doing normal stuff. Like managing playlists, browsing albums, Artists etc. Doing all that on a matchbox screen is far from ideal because interface is cluttered, text isnt fully displayed, screen/device is not as responsive as a phone would be. Had the fiio M5 long time ago, and was pulling my hair almost instantly :), it got sold pretty quickly.

A reciver like im suggesting is about the size of the Sandisk Clip jam(slimmer in width). So id suggest at least giving it a try before deciding on a tiny DAP. There are pretty cheap receivers with dedicated dac/amps, like the Hiby W3 Saber(AK4377). That one can be had for around $40-45 on aliexpress and its the best bang for the buck. I see the official hiby website also has it on sale right now, and its $39.

Bit more feature rich solution would be Fiio BTR3K(AK4377) usually around $60-70(ive also seen it close to $50).

And last, the ultimate powerhouse, Qudelix 5K(ESS9219) at $110.

I find what i proposed much better solution, and thats the way i consume my music. In the end up to you to decide.

The 770 pro are high impedance, so the voltage(2v on SE) gets saturated and the amp is clipping. You would be better off using balanced on the KA3 with those HPs, though modding of the headphones is required to achieve that. Or get something with more power(higher max voltage, imo 4V at least) to pair with your HPs.

Its pita working on such a small screen. Rather get a bt receiver like Fiio BTR3K or Qudelix 5K, paired with short cable for your iems and clipped on the collar. A match made in heaven.

And use your phone as a player, a very flexible one regarding player apps and system wide GEQ/PEQ apps. Bluetooth with LDAC is practically indiscernible from cable, so you wont be really missing out in that regard.

https://www.amazon.com/Apple-USB-C-Headphone-Jack-Adapter/dp/B07K25P3N1/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Apple+Type+C+to+3.5mm&link_code=qs&qid=1667215494&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjM2IiwicXNhIjoiMC42OCIsInFzcCI6IjAuNjkifQ%3D%3D&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Charger-Converter-Charging-Transmission/dp/B0B9RCCRNN/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=usb%2Bc%2Bto%2Btype%2Ba%2Badapter&qid=1667177000&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjI4IiwicXNhIjoiMy4yMiIsInFzcCI6IjIuODEifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=usb%2Bc%2Bto%2Btype%2Ba%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-10&th=1

You could get another dongle for the Laptop, Apple Type C to 3.5mm will work, youll just need to additionaly get a Type C(female) to Type A(male) adapter if your laptop doesnt have Type C ports.

Ive seen some Lightning to Type A and Type C adapters too, so maybe your current dongle will work with adapter like that connected to the laptop. Though cant recommend which one to get as its bit more complicated with those connectors, MFi certifications and such...

Its not like i have surgeon hands, but if you have like alcoholic without a drink shaky hands then idk :).

You just glue the filter edge on a needle tip and lay it down on the driver back, its pretty easy that way imo, easier than using tweezers. Even if you missalign the filter at first try you can peel off and try again.

Getting the 4mm nozzle filter in is bit more finicky, but do it the same way with the needle and once its aligned properly then just push around the edges with the blunt end of the needle so you bring the filter down to the filter shelf in the nozzle and glue them to it. You can potentially instead of 4mm use larger filter for the nozzle(4.5-5mm should do) and just glue it on the top of the nozzle, just like in the video on the Akros channel where the guy uses larger Tanchjim Oxygen filters for the nozzle. But this way you can potentially unglue them when changing tips, so i prefer it my way, with a 4mm filter inside the nozzle.

Smallest amount you can get those filters in is 10 pieces for the Y and 20 pieces for the nozzle filters, so even if you manage to mangle/ruin some im pretty sure youll be able to do it by accident in the end :).

I was asking that in context of the nozzle filters, so curious to know the inner diameter.

It was a video on youtube that inspired me doing the mod, it was some time ago so i dont recall the name of the channel. Though that "Bloxygen" rings a bell, so its probably the same guy.

I remember that Tanchjim Oxygen filters were used on the nozzles(and Y2 on the driver). With what im using, and the measurements i have available to me, i find my results very close to target.

Thanks for the reminder of "Bloxygen". Dont remember what he achieved, but will search youtube with that term, curios to compare.

Edit:

Searched around Akros channel, and yep, thats definitely the guy. Its these 2 videos

The mod - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdFaGm13qaA

The measurements - https://youtu.be/VAiVek2h1rQ?t=1221

When i normalize my charts at 1KHz results are pretty close with what he got, almost the same. Though as i mentioned in one of the previous comments, with my blon sample(there can be some variation), 300 or 350 nozzle filter should bring it even closer and compensate for that around 1-2db difference in the 2-4KHz regions(this would also affect the dip at 6-7KHz, and i like it the way it is currently), and Y2(instead of the Y3 im using) on the driver for the 1db bass difference. Dont have them glued still as they hold pretty well only with the pins, so i might try this variant in the future.

Since i dont have the Oxygen, well cal them by their name, modded Blons. Though they do identify as Oxygens(pretty progressive, i know).

They have Harmanish(warmer with more body/weight) tuning, which i find better, as i dont really like the plain harman curve. In my configuration, theyre not warm per se, but will be warmer sounding than the S12. I find the tuning practically perfect for everything i listen, and i think they will sound right with anything. To mention few, my mostly listened genres are Vocal/acoustic Jazz, Reggae, EDM, Alternative, Classic Rock, Acoustic Rock etc.

Going by the FRC(as i dont have them), compared to S12, most noticeable would be theyre less shouty because of couple of db lower at 2KHz, smoother vocals(less raspiness in the voices) because of also couple of db lower at 3KHz. And generally a feeling of the band being bit farther away because of that dip at around 6-7KHz, which sort of contributes to the warmth feeling. Though mostly its bass that will affect warmth. You can try yourself with 250Hz band on GEQ, going down makes the sound colder, and up makes the sound warmer. But warmer also means bass covering some of the mid frequencies so you might not really want that. I think what might be bothering you in the S12 is the 2KHz ammount, and mostly the flatness at around 6-7KHz. You can try lowering 2KHz Q1.5 by 1-2db, and also 7.2KHz by around 4-5db with Q3 and see how you like the results. Use peaking filters.

You would need parametric EQ to target the frequencies i mention, on android you want "Poweramp Equalizer" and on Windows "Equalizer APO + Peace GUI".

You could also try this bit more complex EQ for your S12

• Preamp: -1.7db

• Fr: 2180Hz, Q: 5.106, Gain: -1.2

• Fr: 4568Hz, Q: 4.338, Gain: 2.3

• Fr: 5427Hz, Q: 7.452, Gain: 1.4

• Fr: 6036Hz, Q: 3.251, Gain: -1.4

• Fr: 7596Hz, Q: 3.478, Gain: -4.8

• Fr: 9946Hz, Q: 1.000, Gain: -1.2

This should bring your S12 to the FR of my modded Blon, though not really ideal way to do it because of unit variation, also ideally i would need to verify the resulting FR after applying the EQ by measuring. But should at least give you the general picture.

Or not ideal, but closest you can get to that result with Graphic Equalizer is:

• Preamp: -1.1db

• Fr: 1000Hz, Gain: 1.1db

• Fr: 2000Hz, Gain: -1db

• Fr: 4000Hz, Gain: 1.1db

• Fr: 8000Hz, Gain: -6.9db

I recommend you go with the PEQ

If you get those filters i mention i used for my mod, you can also play with your S12, and probably will manage to bring them to a level more to your liking with just the nozzle filters.

Btw, what size is the nozzle of the S12?

Sure, ask away if something isnt clear.

Idk man, im kind of suspicious... Your next comment should have been "where do i get those filters", as usually people are not this far into modding. Unless you are, and know about those and where to get them?

hmmmm idk idk.

IM WATCHING YOU :P :)

No no, after all that text, now youre obligated to do it ;).

Those iems are the 7Hz Timeless and Tri i3 Pro

Open up the iems going around the edges with an exacto knife and prying apart. Theyre glued, and also have 3 pins on the edges going in their respective holes. Take your time, and lift each side bit by bit.

On the back of the driver slap a 3mm wide Y2,Y3 or Y4 filter over the existing one. This will lower the bass and low mids(up to around 500Hz), which will remove bass bloat and bleeding into mids. I used Y3 filter, Y2 will leave you with more bass and lower mids, close to 1db. If you prefer less bass and low mids, Y4 will bring it down close to another 1db from my result.

Remove original filter from the nozzle and replace with a 4mm 500 filter, which im pretty sure was mislabeled 400 as my measurement showed that the 400 attenuated more than the 500 and it should be the other way around. So get both if youre going to do the mod and see what you like better if you dont have the means to do a measurement of the result. This will deal with the upper mids/treble.

This is the result compared to Oxygen.

https://imgur.com/HA1nidq

Blue is the modded Blon and green is the Oxygen. Oxygen measurement in the chart wasnt done by me(The Blon meaurement is mine), so the larger spread after 8KHz could be due to differences in rigs(theyre pretty consistent up to 7-8KHz) and/or also resonance because of different tips used. If both were measured on my rig, result might be even more spot on. Not like theyre not very close already, ive seen sets with channel imbalance between R/L like that :).

Edit: When comparing by normalizing the charts at 1KHz, it would get closer to the Oxygen by using Y2 driver and 300(or maybe 350) nozzle filters. Worth considering.

Retuned(or moded if you will) Blon 03. Resulting FR eerily close to Tanchjim Oxygen, and punching way above their class. I find myself using them more than i should given i have 2 pairs of $200 range IEMS in the drawer beside them :).

Words of someone who has both - "They sound 95% same as the Oxygen"

> i dont think im experienced enough to place them on the nozzles

Its pretty trivial, filters have the adhesive applied in a cirlce shape on the edges, you just stick them on the inside ledge of the nozzle holding them on a needle tip or with tweezers. You just need to make sure to measure the nozzle size so you get the right size filters, nothing more to it. To remove just use a needle and go around the edges and try to stick it underneath, then just peel.

And would probably benefit you, since you say you dont like treble and they do affect mostly upper mids/treble.

Heres an example of the effect they have, it 200 on top going down to 500 filter. 200 is pretty close to just steel mesh(screen door like filter), and 100 would probably be like no filter at all, though havent measured that one. https://imgur.com/FPDYflL

And now you have some spare nozzles to experiment with :).

For more bass plug the vent near the nozzle, you can use micropore tape(found in pharmacies) or even better try different density filters there to control the ammount of bass, and to reduce bass plug the vent farther from the nozzle.

Edit: This is not a kato measurement in the example, so dont know what is the starting point/effect the kato stock nozzles/filters have on the sound signature.

Cant see very clearly whats the damage on the nozlle, cant you just glue the filters back in?

If you messed up the glue, then just get new nozzles from moondrop if you want the same tuning. Or get some different density(100/200/300/400/500) nozzle filters and/or some steel mesh screens and play around, you might arrive to something that you would like even better than the stock nozzles tuning.