Cordless all the way.

My Dewalt is atleast 10 years old, rips through plywood no problem. It might balk at 2" of hardwood, but I have never tried. I also have a battery powered track saw, that will chew through 2" of hardwood.

Sometimes I bring it to the store even, I'll rough cut a sheet in the parking lot to fit in the car so I don't need the trailer.

I'm thinking maybe sports?

Not sure if they are, but its the only other career that springs to mind where there's huge production resources dependent on one person being healthy to perform on a specific day.

Can't be done remotely, or rescheduled.

Step one would have been not to have huge gaps in the corners tbh...

The job starts with hanging the drywall. The cheat is to use Great Stuff to fill gaps, use a filet knife to cut it flush and move straight to tape and compound...

But that's in the past.

You need to sand the highspots until your either flat or to the paper. Then start from there with tape and compound.

YouTube has lots of videos that make it look easy. It won't be, but with a few extra hours of sanding you'll still be successful.

Also, forget hot mud. It's hard to even know how much strength hot mud provides, it's more about working speed which isn't your concern. Premix is way more forgiving

Toggle bolts spread the load to secure onto a sheet of plaster or drywall.

In your case, you could go a tep further and use a peice of wood as your anchor. You wouldn't really need to secure the wood to anything, the TV bolts would hold it in place.

It might be overkill, but would be more secure then toggle bolts alone, but does require drilling straight through the wall producing holes in the closet to patch and paint when you leave

They can do an equivalent job, but not the same job

Some would say saturdays...

Someone's in 10th grade poly sci

Gear is plastic, so I'm not confident a grub screw will have sufficient strength...

You can either drill the bar through to remove whatever pin got stuck and put a new pin. Or drill the end of the bar and tap the hole to put a screw in from the end to trap the gear.

Not clear I'd the bar is removable, so drilling from the end may be more achievable...

Or... slather some epoxy on it and cross your fingers

If you trim it, which I think would actually be fine to accomplish... a few issues

1. Are the borders solid or some sort of veneer or hollow core?

2. Will you lose your mortises for the hinges and door knob hole?

3. The edges are probably subtly rounded, you'd need to restore that, not too hard to manage with a router, or maybe just sand paper

If it did run 20min straight due to a leak or other issue, good chance your pump seals are toast. It's not meant for that sort of continuous use.

Or maybe it was bad from the start.

When in doubt, dynaflex 230 is the Swiss army knife of caulk. Others have their uses, but this one is my go to.

Caulk and paint make me the carpenter I ain't.

Seriously, for what you were attempting to do, this is the best answer. Finishing the top of the shelf, add some led channels under the shelf to light it up, those would be nice touches, but caulk and paint should make it presentable.

What's the goal? To make clay that works as a match striker?

The red phosphorous is critical, it's what makes it all work. It bridges the gap between how much heat you have rubbing wood on powdered glass, and what it takes to light the fuel on the match head.

I'm pretty sure red phosphorous is not straight forward to purchase. And even if you could, coating clay in it would be a hazard.