Okay, specifics time, I work as a paint specialist
ProMar 400 is a dead flat, so it's great for ceilings.
Less sheen means imperfections show leas, and since ceilings get hit by light at all sorts of angles, something like that is good.
You might come across "ceiling flat" at some point. It's the same as dead flat
"Premium" paints will have a slight side sheen, even when they say "flat"
Higher grade paints will say "matte" instead of flat, it's basically all the same, just the higher the grade of paint, the higher the sheen, usually. Higher grade satin will have a slight sheen difference to a lower grade satin. Always touch up with the same exact product if possible.
Emerald is expensive stuff, it's not bad but really expensive.
If it's for a flip, stick with "pro grade" products
If it's for a client's home, I usually recommend anything "premium" or above, aka, "paint and primer"
For the record, paint + primer does NOT mean you can skip priming, as others are saying, you can remove the popcorn ceiling, but I would definitely get some decent primer before painting over the removed ceiling. Also pretty much anywhere you put new spackle, new texture, new drywall, etc. Basically, if it's been painted before, primer can help if you don't want to sand the gloss off. If it's a new surface, priming is a good first step. This applies to wood, masonry, drywall, and metal when wanting to apply paints. Some paints, like DTM, won't need a primer, but it never hurts. Any water stains, sharpie markers, or graffiti, you want to use an oil based primer to keep it from bleeding through to the top coat. If you ever paint redwood, or cedar, use a good quality stain blocking primer to keep the oils in the wood from seeping through to your paint coat.
Primer will help seal the surface, and help the paint stick better, and it's cheaper to do a coat of primer, than a coat of sacrificial paint. Primer also typically dries quicker.
95% of residential architectural coatings are going to be acrylic these days, at least in places on the west coast.
Acrylic/latex paint = water based paint = soap and water cleanup
Senor_Andy_Panda t1_j25efez wrote
Reply to New painter questions about old paint on walls, unpainted popcorn ceilings and primer! by thatoneguyovertheres
Okay, specifics time, I work as a paint specialist
ProMar 400 is a dead flat, so it's great for ceilings.
Less sheen means imperfections show leas, and since ceilings get hit by light at all sorts of angles, something like that is good.
You might come across "ceiling flat" at some point. It's the same as dead flat
"Premium" paints will have a slight side sheen, even when they say "flat"
Higher grade paints will say "matte" instead of flat, it's basically all the same, just the higher the grade of paint, the higher the sheen, usually. Higher grade satin will have a slight sheen difference to a lower grade satin. Always touch up with the same exact product if possible.
Emerald is expensive stuff, it's not bad but really expensive.
If it's for a flip, stick with "pro grade" products
If it's for a client's home, I usually recommend anything "premium" or above, aka, "paint and primer"
For the record, paint + primer does NOT mean you can skip priming, as others are saying, you can remove the popcorn ceiling, but I would definitely get some decent primer before painting over the removed ceiling. Also pretty much anywhere you put new spackle, new texture, new drywall, etc. Basically, if it's been painted before, primer can help if you don't want to sand the gloss off. If it's a new surface, priming is a good first step. This applies to wood, masonry, drywall, and metal when wanting to apply paints. Some paints, like DTM, won't need a primer, but it never hurts. Any water stains, sharpie markers, or graffiti, you want to use an oil based primer to keep it from bleeding through to the top coat. If you ever paint redwood, or cedar, use a good quality stain blocking primer to keep the oils in the wood from seeping through to your paint coat.
Primer will help seal the surface, and help the paint stick better, and it's cheaper to do a coat of primer, than a coat of sacrificial paint. Primer also typically dries quicker.
95% of residential architectural coatings are going to be acrylic these days, at least in places on the west coast.
Acrylic/latex paint = water based paint = soap and water cleanup
Mineral spirits cleanup = oil based paint