SnakeJG t1_j9jhuj7 wrote

> If the veneer is damaged or sealant ruined and not resealed it could seep in water from the nearby sink, causing more damage and repairs to complete.

But that's the thing, the countertop is well sealed right now how it is. The sealant just went deeper where it was sanded more, so the color is off. If OP sands everything down with the higher grit sandpaper to reseal everything, the veneer will get thinner and if a future reseal is needed there is a bigger risk of sanding through it.


SnakeJG t1_j9ilx8y wrote

I know it is super noticable to you, but unless it's pointed out, I doubt other people will notice it. I'd just leave it.

At some point it's likely you'll need to reseal some parts anyway (somebody not using a cutting board, hot grease being spilled/splattered, etc), you can sand and reseal the whole counter then if it still bothers you.


SnakeJG t1_j9g5kh4 wrote

That's a pretty small span, especially if you are supporting it on three sides or are fixing it to the side supports, basically half, 5/8 or 3/4 inch anything (not mdf) will do. Assuming 1.5 inch wide supports, that knocks your span down to 25".


SnakeJG t1_j6gs7o9 wrote

To add to this, a door like the one you are thinking of drilling through is probably around $300 to 400 to replace DIY, double that to have it done professionally.

I'm not sure what you (OP) need to use the battery for, but also worth seeing if that connection is available in a flat cable. (12v or household 120v are both available)


SnakeJG t1_j6g7dcg wrote

It will be much cheaper/easier to just put the battery in a waterproof Rubbermaid container and have it sit outside with the panels.

If you must do this, I wouldn't do it through the door, otherwise you'll end up having to replace the door whenever you move out (or sooner if your plug ends up leaking).

Also look for things like flat cables, you might very easily be able to just run the cable under the other door.


SnakeJG t1_iy9n7b6 wrote

I don't know the code, but I would put in a junction box to split the line to your switch and the dishwasher. I would keep the dishwasher hardwired in (I've never seen one plugged into an outlet). I would keep the garbage disposal hardwired to the switch. If you need/want to put in an outlet, I would put a single plug outlet for the disposal.


SnakeJG t1_iu4vftr wrote

I would try a screw extractor, you just might have to use a smaller size.

If that doesn't work and you are at the point of wanting to replace everything, I would instead use some waterproof epoxy putty to just permanently attach your replacement handle. Worst case you have to replace the whole valve anyhow, but if it holds you can have a good 10+ years with it.

Edit: Bonus 3rd idea: The screw hole looks like it might be really deep in your picture, its possible you can just turn the broken screw deeper using a drill bit and have enough room to just screw in the valve normally (possibly with a shorter than standard screw).