I think another person said this but it is a single piece. The side facing in has about 9-12 screws counter sunk around the border/frame that have to be removed. Once those are out, pry up the border gently. It will not want to because the metal door is filled with expansion foam. It may take some finagling. Once removed, That is what holds the grid in place. It should more or less come right out. Then you can tint it. Install is reverse of removal, and seal with a bead of silicone/caulk on the inside of the removed piece

It’s double-paned, argon filled and has a n aluminum frame sandwiched around the perimeter of it filled with silica beads.

Is this on exterior wall or remotely under a bathroom/kitchen in the house.? Does it leak when it rains or when somebody flushes a toilet? Runs dishwasher? Showers?

Delaminating paint/plaster/sheetrock is a sign that significant moisture is absorbed into its composition. And continually being exposed to it a steady pace. It’s may not be enough to precipitate out to significantly form a wet spot or puddle. Much like a leaking washer on a shower cartridge, a shifted tub shoe or an old copper/CI drain connection that has a slow leak on certain occasions. Either way, the only way to fix this issue is address the source of the leak first. Cut out a square in the ceiling twice the size of the damage. Leave it open to dry, and Liberally spray either dilute benzyl alcohol/water or dilute bleach/water. That will disinfect and aid in the evaporation of water. Replace with appropriate thickness sheet rock

Chemist here. You will need a chlorinated organic solvent. Using petroleum, solvents and distillates for cleaning floors is common and dangerous, and can cause brain damage and cancer.

The most readily available would be tetrachloroethylene. More commonly referred to as Brakleen Red. Any turdzone will have it. They even make an extra large can with a jet spray nozzle. Evaporates clean with little residue, is not flammable, and prob the strongest adhesive remover available commercially. A lot of times it’s wiped off the shelves it’s not a secret. That and some people use it to clean pharmaceutical freebases of illicit drugs. Just saying.

Once it penetrates underneath it will be a cake walk. It’s also heavier than water, so it will sink and continue to, displacing water upwards.

Your next option, although advise against it would be toluene. OR it’s shitty little brother xylene. These two petroleum solvents are capable of melting plastic at room temperature. Also toxic, flammable extremely, and pricey. Buying large quantities of these may give you some funny looks at check out. because they to, are often involved in the production of methamphetamine. I would stick to a max of 2 gallons or less. That would be normal.

Lastly, I’ll suggest the most powerful cleaning substance that I’m aware of called piranha solution. It is a combination of concentrated virgin sulfuric acid(Kleen out) mixed with 3% hydrogen peroxide. Always add to acid never add acid to anything. It must be mixed in a glass vessel, because within seconds it will reach upwards of 300° and be boiling independently by itself. This is what the cartels use in 55 gallon plastic drums to dissolve the victims in. from what I’ve heard, it can chop down a whole body in less than a week. Me personally, I just use it to clean glass wears.

There you go, buddy there’s ya hitchhikers guide to clean floors

🙏 Was a maintenance super for about 1200 units spread across a city of about 700k. I could usually talk most residents through simple repairs over the phone. But always came if they didn’t feel comfortable….lol. either way ima get the designated hour alloted and close out the order!

Yes, the igniter is next up. If it doesn’t glow there is no call to the gas valve. It will cycle three times trying to light. On the 3rd failed attempt it typically shuts off for anywhere from 4-6 hours or Until reset, Depending on the dip switches respectively. You can Test the board where speed terminals connect the igniter for voltage ; Or if you don’t have a voltmeter unscrew the screw, remove the igniter and plug it up to 110 power source/wall receptacle to see if it glows. Be careful, AND DO NOT TOUCH THE CARBON ROD OF THE IGNITER WITHOUT LATEX OR NITRIL GLOVES. The oil from your skin/fingers will deposit onto the igniter and it will cause it to fail and fracture next time it lights up. If it works that is lol.

Top middle. Single black awg wire w/red female spade on it.

It’s your flame sensor. It’s directly in front of one of the jets where the flame is guided into the heat exchanger. It will be held typically by one 1/4 hex drive sheet metal screw. Turn unit off, allow to cool if needed, Remove screw and sensor(unhook spade terminal) wipe it off with a isopropanol alcohol pad. Assemble the opposite of removal.

The sequence(call for heat) should go ;

Blower motor(for 90sec cooldown purge then it stops ) —> draft inducer (creates proper draft direction and negative Hg (vacuum) —> pressure switch diaphragm closes after sum check of circuit —>24vac sumcheck through rollout sensors and fan limit switches —> gas valve opens <—> igniter(glow rod) engages red hot(simultaneously sometimes) —> lastly flame sensor sumcheck of milliamperes. If motherboard CPU says “ok” then circuit stays closed til somethimg interrupts it.

Hope that made sense. Lol

Edit- ^poster is 100% correct About counting the flashes. On the inside of the service door it should have the explanation of them with a schematic diagram. I m missed the part about a new thermostat. I’m assuming it’s a fancy Wi-Fi jobber, which are nice but sometimes are not compatible or require the blue wire/common to be hard wired to the unit. Most standard thermostat do not require this however, and it can cause issues. Quick way to rule out the thermostat is to take the white wire and the red wire and manually call for the heat by jumping them together.

My bad. 3/4GHT to 1/4 NPT.

Minimprover Brass 2PCS Garden Hose Adapter,Faucet to Hose Adapter,3/4" Female GHT Garden Hose Thread to 1/4" OD Compression Brass Connector Pipe Fittings https://a.co/d/fvBaKGs

Yes. It’s very simple and not against any code that I am aware of. You would have to buy a standard bibcock y-splitter (the one with individual shutoff ball valves)like you would attach if you were using, say two hoses on the outside spigot. Then buy a Female 3/4NPT x (Male)1/4NPT compression reducer fitting. Insert your 1/4 copper or pex line with a correct ferrel and done.

In fact it is probably the easiest, non-invasive way to source a water supply for your fridge/ice maker. There is no altering of the existing lines and can be safely removed with ease.