Spinaccio

Spinaccio t1_je81x7r wrote

So, would switching to a single payer system require a whole set of other programs to employ all these talented people? Like a New Deal? Seems like our gornment would have to do a lot of work to plan and administrate something so massive. Like, do their job.

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Spinaccio t1_je29db5 wrote

As a general rule, when in doubt I always will. You’re pouring new concrete to older, more cured concrete that is considerably harder, so they will expand and contract at different rates which will very likely cause a crack to open between them. If you’re tech-minded, here’s what the American Concrete Institure has to say: https://www.concrete.org/Portals/0/Files/PDF/302.1R-15_Chapter5.pdf

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Spinaccio t1_jaai8wc wrote

Install two temporary adjustable Lally columns near the middle of the beam to level it while you work. Drop a plumb bob from the center of the beam to the floor and mark it, then make that the center of a 12” square to cut out of the floor. Dig down to whatever the frost line is where you live (say, 4 feet). You can calculate how much concrete mix you should need, but I always buy more than I think the job will take, concrete mix has no expiration date. Pour about 12” into the hole, using the sides as a form (if you want to install steel reinforcement, bend it so it extends up 2 feet above this). Once that has set drop an 8” Sonotube onto it and fill it with concrete to the level of the floor. 72 hours later, level the joist with adjustable columns. Go slowly and check for cracks in the masonry above. Measure the distance from the beam to the new footing, taking base and top plates into consideration and cut a cement filled permenant Lally column to fit. I cut the pipe with a grinder and break it with a hammer. Raise the joist 1/4” or so to fit the new column, plumb it from 12 o’clock and 9 o’clock and lower the beam onto it. When you remove the temporary posts the beam should be level and solid. If the crack is bad, I would sister an LVL to it with 3/8” galvanized through bolts and washers. Next step, build a fire, crack a beer, and put on the game.

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Spinaccio t1_j8xx1ns wrote

You need to have a licensed electrician inspect the work, then pull a permit and redo anything that is not up to code. They are generally allowed to self-inspect, so the city won’t send their inspector for a small amount of work by a licensed person. The issue is your insurance. If you suffer a fire your insurance company absolutely will send an inspector, and if they see your work and you don’t have a permit and inspection, your insurance will not pay, even if your work had nothing to do with the fire.

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Spinaccio t1_iwnvopv wrote

Don’t know where you get 0.01%. Current QC requirements in the US that I work with call for roll testing, visually observing a heavy object rolling over the substrate, hoping to see any soft spots in the substrate, and Nuclear densitometer testing which is highly localized and in my experience used to show an average compaction over an area. Adding testing that is more widespread, even without 100% accuracy, gives quality control an additional tool to find soft spots in a roadbed before it is paved over.

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Spinaccio t1_iwf06ha wrote

If it can accurately predict failure points while rolling, even guessing, it could save billions in repairs and insurance claims. Redo a potential soft spot, then bring in the nuke. Right now the standards I’ve seen for compaction testing leave potential holes like Swiss cheese. More testing is good.

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