Oh! That’s actually pretty good!

But you wouldn’t have a funny story to tell, or something to joke around with him about if this hadn’t happened.

I never had a problem with that. Maybe because the grade 8 is so much harder than the stainless in the machine screw. That would be the worst possible way to ruin one though.

I basically did that on the threaded end. I used a dremel to grind down the threads so the centering bit has more area to grab.

Honestly, I like the asymmetry. To each their own.

I’ve actually been thinking a bit about this since you wrote this comment…I ruined 6 bolts out of 15 learning how to do all this. So that means I either have to buy a few more bolts or get creative. Maybe I can label the electrical stuff drawer by using large wire nuts as knobs, and my painting supply drawer could have a paint can opener with the offsets tapped into it. I have a nice rolling toolbox for most of my “tools” so this desk is mainly specialized tools and supplies.

My drawers are, automotive stuff, General hardware, gardening, painting / drywall, plumbing, electrical. Feel free to toss out any viable suggestions.

Bonus pics https://i.imgur.com/oI9PO0u.jpeg https://imgur.com/gallery/kmQfyhx

Is it the Kreg cabinet hardware jig? That thing looks really nice! I’ve used their pocket screw jig.

By stubby bolt, I meant more like a 1/2”x1” or something. Thread a little into the wood and leave the hex head as the part you grab.

Always start with a challenge!

A little googling shows there are a couple different ways to make this coating. The hexavalent version is currently not allowed by the EU, but I have no idea if it’s still allowed in the US. Sounds like a big problem among people who perform stainless welding and grinding.

I clamped it to the edge of the drill press tray to keep it sturdy. None of the Harbor Freights near me had those in stock when I did this project.

The hardest part is getting the hole started. Once the center bit catches, I can do the 3/8” depth in 10-15 seconds. Each bit can cut at least 6 holes, so 3 pulls.

That was kind of my thought. It was a reason to learn how to use a tap set, and on paper sounds more impressive than “I just glued it all together”

If the floor isn’t level, and the top of the work bench isn’t level, what really does “level” mean?

Please share how you would do it! Hex standoffs are either aluminum or brass and I like the shiny gold of the zinc plating on the grade 8 bolts. I probably could have drilled in a larger diameter hole and attached the stand-off with epoxy instead of threading the hole.

You’re racking them up too!

Yeah, efficient should have been in quotes.

Has not been a problem so far. Thanks for your concern.

Lol, I’ve never used a tap set before this, but never welded either.

Yeah, I found that out after I purchased everything. I like the yellow zinc color though.

I don’t see him a ton, so I take the good with the bad.

Excellent advice. Unfortunately there is a lot of non-square and non-level issues with the cabinets. My 74 year old father helped me build them and he is often more focused on speed and efficiency over accuracy.

i have seen something similar to what I’ve done with open-ended wrenches. I think something was welded onto them. A large saws-all blade would make an impressive drawer pull!

> Anxiety-inducing

r/firstworldproblems/

That’s not a bad idea. Drill a large hole and install some tee nuts and then screw some stubby bolts into the tee nut. Probably would have to use some Epoxy on the threads to prevent them from screwing in and out