No, then the sign would say "fitness 3 inches into your child"

Definately.. Only I go one step further and skip every RHCP song that isn't Under the Bridge.

>remove Disarm

Blasphemy

I owned both Use Your Illusions back when people actually had CD players, and listened to them no telling how many times, yet I don't even recall that song existing. Maybe it was so bad I blocked it from my memory, or maybe after the first listen I just knew not to play the last track, but that was almost 30 years ago so who knows?

No, just most... There are plenty of those in the military where goatees are not allowed (or else they would probably have one, too).

Well I wouldn't recommend eating it raw. That would be worse for both you and the poor lobster.

If you try to cut tempered glass the entire panel will explode.

The mixer motors at my plant draw 2000+ amps at 480V277V x 3phases. They ramp up and down every few minutes, and we have 5 of them.

Only because cats will work for no one. They only torture and kill things for fun, not for a paycheck.

Everytime we shut down a child porn ring, another republican loses his erection.

Yeah... When there's no line, it's no big deal to just swing by the community center and cast your vote after work. I was in and out in 7 minutes, and 6 of that was reading through a dozen ballot measures.

My Purple pillow weighs 11lbs... I say bring it on, reaper.

>It comes as Green MSP Gillian Mackay prepares to introduce legislation to the Scottish Parliament that would impose 150-metre safe access zones around health facilities that provide abortion or give other sexual health and care advice.

>These zones would put an end to the protests that regularly occur directly outside of healthcare facilities in Scotland, which campaigners say cause intimidation and distress to those receiving care.

I wish we had leadership like that in the US

>He went on: “They’re supposed to be doing their job and instead they’re so blinded by their bigotry they’re targeting those they don’t agree with.”

Take a look in the mirror, asshole.

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>The original fan was connected to a wire that seemed to go down directly into the house above the bathroom wall. That was kind of confusing to me cause if it goes directly to that switch, it would have never worked... cause where would the power come from??

Is there a receptacle on that wall? Should be a GFCI if so. It's possible they jumped off of the receptacle with a switch-loop through the switch and to the fan.

The green wire was probably at the very bottom of the switch, no? On a green ground screw? That is required for code purposes, to ground the frame of the switch for safety. It serves no purpose for functionality.

The white should be powering the fan while the black is incoming power (if it was originally wired correctly). If the black was taken loose, it was probably because something was fucked (maybe the switch, maybe the fan) and the old owners didn't feel like fixing it properly, though they should have at least capped the black with a wire-nut instead of leaving it dangling if it's a constant hot. I'd probe each wire with a multimeter to see wtf is actually going on before doing anything else. You should get no voltage between the white and green and 110-120 (or 220-240? I'm not sure what country you're in) between the black and each of the others.

Normally, you'd have 2 cables coming into a standard switch box. Neutral carries through, ground carries through with a jumper to the switch for safety, blacks go to the side terminals (one is constant, one is switched).

What you have is referred to as a switch-loop, where the source cable goes to the device first, the neutral is wired directly to the device, and the black is wired to that cable coming down to your switch. The white wire at the switch will be the hot wire going back up to the device. This setup is not compatible with a smart switch as it needs a neutral to power itself. You'd have to replace the cable between the switch and the fan with 14/3 to have a neutral at the box.

Transmission loss, AC/DC conversion, and keeping the battery temperature regulated draws more current than 30A to actually charge at 30A. Also, I didn't say it would be unsafe, because the breaker should trip if you're overloading the circuit, just that there isn't really room to bother adding anything.

>What would a disconnect have to do with the draw?

Would you bother with a big disconnect box for a 1A circuit running a small fan? Doubtful.. But I bet you have one going to your HVAC.

>Sub panel seems a little expensive and unnecessary

I agree.. This circuit isn't really big enough to split off additional loads unless the charger is taken out of the picture. Swapping the breaker feeding it from a 40A to a 50A and putting in a 50A subpanel would cost well over CA$100 and you could add what? A coffee maker? It's best not to run a circuit at capacity for long periods of time, especially over distance, and lv2 chargers take several hours to charge a dead EV. I wouldn't add anything to this circuit...

It's still a 40A circuit on a 40A breaker, it just has wire rated for 55A along most of the run. Using a couple feet of 8ga at the end will not hurt anything.

You already downsize the massive 200A cables coming into your service entrance with 15-20A wires going to most of your devices, then those devices may have some tiny 20+ga wires inside them. You use what you need for the individual load, you don't just carry on the larger cable for consistency.

He probably doesn't know how to escape that first pound sign... That, or never bothered looking back at his comment after posting it.

Instead of a junction box, I would put in a disconnect...