WingedGeek

WingedGeek OP t1_jdfpa14 wrote

Following up from the other day... Rebuilt the Tokyo60 kit (Coyote colorway, which, when did Coyote become a thing?), this time with:

  • Gateron Ink Baby Kangaroo switches (like them more than the Halo Clear switches, but they’re not my absolute favorite; may redo it yet again, when I lube the stabilizers, with maybe Boba U4T switches?)
  • NovelKeys screw in stabilizers replacing the stock ones from the kit, which were totally tweaked and basically unusable
  • DROP + Tokyo Season 4 Dyesub PBT keycaps for the HHKB layout
  • Generic M2-0.4 mm screws (4mm length) to mount the board to the case (missing from the used kit I bought)
  • Nillkin keyboard risers (“feet”) affixed with adhesive to the bottom of the board. I probably could have gone with something fixed (I’m just using these without the collapsible feet extended, to get like 6mm tilt up for the back edge), but I didn’t know that before I tried these...

I could not initially figure out how the inserts were supposed to go into the sleeves but after watching some lubing videos I figured it out (and it's obvious in hindsight). Next up, I suppose: Actually getting some lube and finishing the stabilizers (I’m just running them dry for now). This is my first non-prebuilt, and it’s been a fun learning experience!

If anyone’s supremely bored...

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WingedGeek OP t1_jd0xjju wrote

This is part of why I have gone with pre-builts mostly ;) Your link has the 2U for $.90/ea, so, $1.80. The 7U (which I need for the space bar) is $1.45, but, out of stock. But let's use the 6.25U as a stand-in. $3.25. Shipping adds another $5.54, estimated delivery Friday, 3/24, for $9.12. If I go Priority Mail, I get 'em Thursday and spend $8.99 for shipping. $12.57 total (with tax). On Amazon, the total is $16.41 and I'll have them before noon tomorrow (4x 2U and 1x 7U, though I only need 2x 2U).

> TX is SUPER easy to tune. Some lube on the wire and you’re done. Maybe some on the housing if you notice a scratchy sound coming from them, or if you just don’t wanna risk it and deal with disassembling to reach them. Cherry clip ins require the usual balancing, lubing ordeal.

Sounds like I have some quality time to spend with Google ... I have never heard of tuning stabilizers TBH.

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WingedGeek OP t1_jd0t9b4 wrote

I'm pretty sure the stabs in this kit were damaged by a prior owner. I've never used a board this crappy (the space bar is basically unusable, and I had to bend the 2U for the left shift key to get it in). So even $10 properly working stabs will be a huge improvement. I'll look at TX and Cherry clip-ins though, thanks! (Like I said, I'm totally new to all of this; all I've done to date was swap switches / keycaps, either hotswappable or through soldering. Oh, and bridge wires when I borked a solder point. But I know nothing about foam or lube or stabiliziers or ...)

TX: These? https://divinikey.com/products/tx-stabilizers?variant=39883460771905

Cherry... https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Cherry-PCB-Snap-Stabilizers/dp/B085T8QZJC?th=1 ?

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WingedGeek t1_j71niv6 wrote

I live on the west side of Los Angeles and none of the three carriers can get me more than 1 bar of degraded (e.g., LTE) service in my home or on the grounds. It's a fluke of topography (I only get a couple of FM stations and no OTA television). I'm ~3 minutes from the 10 and 405 freeways. It's very possible in the mountains there's no service, 1 hour from LA.

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