You'll be heating less surface area and volume.

In my area (zone 5), ceiling R-value requirement is R-49. The job would require one run of tunnel vents at the eaves, some fiberglass batts to block them up and 18"-20" of blown insulation on the flat ceiling. To get the same R-value on the rafters, you would need either a hybrid of spray foam/batts/rigid board insulation, or build down the rafters for batts. You'd also have to apply R-19 to the gables, and consider a venting solution.

If there's no need to pay to heat the attic, insulate the ceiling and save the $$.

The old carbide blade will work. The 4 T ones for cement board last monger, but are just as miserable to run. I switched over to Hardiboard, and bought a set of drill-powered snips for the last couple of jobs: gamechanger!

Holy cow! Iced out completely?

Ah, the good old days, when there was a gravel ramp right in this picture...

When you remove the linoleum/vinyl, take up the underlayment that it's surely attached to. Pound down the fasteners... you don't have to sand the subfloor, but do screw it off to the joists. The TCA would have you install plywood to bring the total thickness to 1-1/8". That underlayment looks like the Custom branded product that HD sells - use thinset that's just a little on the damp side to lay it and have some loose boards handy to hold down the ends until it sets, as they tend to curl up. Apply two coats of sealer to the face of your stone before laying, as it's near impossible to get bonded thinset off slate. Do a tidy job undercutting casings, and use a straightedge to get the face of the stone relatively flush along the walls, or your baseboards will be a challenge.

Precast concrete bricks and mortar, then RedGard.

Ditto - probably not open though?

Use a steel old work box and screw the mounting ears to the plywood cabinet back with two #4 wood screws (placed diagonally).

What condition are the interior and exterior casings/sills in? Are vinyl replacements an option for you? FWIW, I'm local to you and do windows.

Here's the first copy I bought (probably '87 or so), I've got a later edition or two around here too. This and a Delorme map book were my bibles:)

There's one on eBay for $80... ughhh!

Lol - no prob. I think there might have been one in Dover too? Up near a traffic circle back in the ... '80s? I set my personal best Galaga score there - screen 272 and it stopped sending guys down - only time I ever beat the game.

No, it was a Funspot for sure. I used to do the token hack too back then (half-price when you bought them by the roll). Right on the corner of 101 and N. Hollis/S. Merrimack in the unit on the left end

Used to play at the one on Amherst Street/101.

Genocide!

Number 2 Oil. I've burned up 350-ish gallons so far, at $4.50/ea. 1200-1300 SF.

As someone who's gardened in NH for decades, there's a fresh crop of rocks every year!

I worked on refurbing my backup compressor (oiled twin tank Hitachi) yesterday, due to making air slowly. One of the reed valves was corroded/worn through, the unloader line had a loose connection at the tank exit, and the shutoff diaphragm was leaking. Got that done, but it's not turning on very well - I think the unloader valve is stuck too :/

I'd swap that Makita for a fresh one if you're still within the return period.

The southern section was pretty crummy this afternoon!

1/2" drywall is approved for 24" on-center, perpendicular to the framing. 99.99% of the jobs I've been on were 16" on-center, and 16" is required for parallel sheets.

24" to 30" would be fine, if every fastener grabs. Assuming this is going over CMU, not solid cast-in-place concrete?

I've got that covered:)

I just checked it out on the F&G site and Clark's book. Appears to have decent access too - I try to hit new water regularly, I think I'll give it a look this year. Thanks for the tip:)

Nope, If I head that direction, I'm usually going to Pawtuckaway. Onway looks like a nice little bass pond!

Haha:) Newfound on the flattest day ever Nov. 2020

You're killin' me!