bassboat1 t1_jef9lhv wrote

You'll be heating less surface area and volume.

In my area (zone 5), ceiling R-value requirement is R-49. The job would require one run of tunnel vents at the eaves, some fiberglass batts to block them up and 18"-20" of blown insulation on the flat ceiling. To get the same R-value on the rafters, you would need either a hybrid of spray foam/batts/rigid board insulation, or build down the rafters for batts. You'd also have to apply R-19 to the gables, and consider a venting solution.


bassboat1 t1_je9nggt wrote

The old carbide blade will work. The 4 T ones for cement board last monger, but are just as miserable to run. I switched over to Hardiboard, and bought a set of drill-powered snips for the last couple of jobs: gamechanger!


bassboat1 t1_je59bbh wrote

When you remove the linoleum/vinyl, take up the underlayment that it's surely attached to. Pound down the fasteners... you don't have to sand the subfloor, but do screw it off to the joists. The TCA would have you install plywood to bring the total thickness to 1-1/8". That underlayment looks like the Custom branded product that HD sells - use thinset that's just a little on the damp side to lay it and have some loose boards handy to hold down the ends until it sets, as they tend to curl up. Apply two coats of sealer to the face of your stone before laying, as it's near impossible to get bonded thinset off slate. Do a tidy job undercutting casings, and use a straightedge to get the face of the stone relatively flush along the walls, or your baseboards will be a challenge.


bassboat1 t1_jabgvcf wrote

I worked on refurbing my backup compressor (oiled twin tank Hitachi) yesterday, due to making air slowly. One of the reed valves was corroded/worn through, the unloader line had a loose connection at the tank exit, and the shutoff diaphragm was leaking. Got that done, but it's not turning on very well - I think the unloader valve is stuck too :/

I'd swap that Makita for a fresh one if you're still within the return period.