Yeah spraying indoors is very situational. But that's one situation for sure.

Remove any fasteners holding the box and see if there's enough play in the conduit to move it over a few inches. It'll depend on where that conduit is attached to the stud.

If it moves far enough then just shim the stud with 2 more 2x4 scraps and reattach the box (cut a new hole in the drywall for it).

If you can't move it far enough then you'll have to open that back wall further and figure out how to get some play in the conduit.

Weird that there's metal conduit in the wall. That's bad luck on your part.

The black ceiling is actually really cool. Nicely done.

There's no reason to use cement board on a backsplash.

Personally I think sharkbites are terrible, but technically it's doable.

You have PEX coming out of the wall so you're not putting sharkbites on that. You either have to buy, rent or borrow the PEX tools necessary to do this. If you think you'll do more of your own plumbing then buying is a good option. PEX is very easy to do as long as you remember to check every crimp with the provided tester.

If you DIY then all you have to do here is snip the lines coming out of the wall about halfway between the wall and the first fitting, them swap the two assemblies (hot to cold and vice versa), then use a PEX straight coupling to reattach. It's literally a 4 crimp, 5 minute operation.

Note that you must turn off the water main to do this.

Edit: ok you could use sharkbites but please don't. They're terrible IMO.

Drywall screws are actually very brittle. I'd recommend against using them for generic purposes.

Head on over to /r/tile where the professionals are and explain that grout is waterproof. You'll have some fun.

Sorry but this is incorrect on both key points.

First, grout is not waterproof. It doesn't pass water easily but it's not waterproof.

Second, the reason you caulk changes of plane is precisely because caulk is flexible. The two planes will swell and shrink at different rates over time, causing grout to fail. Having said that, grouting a mitered tile assembly around a niche is quite common because the one plane is so small it won't move much.

I'm just suggesting that you put it back in and try it all again, since that switch sounds more easily accessible.

I'd replace switch A with a non dimmer first and see if it all works again.

The hole would mostly be full of dowel. Tape the opening during curing.

I'd be tempted to drill the existing holes out a little larger and epoxy large wood dowels into the voids, then predrill and lag bolt into those. Like 3/4" dowels.

Personally I wouldn't trust it. You've compromised the bricks in those locations already. Brick is very brittle, it's difficult to mount to properly.

Probably a brick wall then. You'll want some kind of expanding metal anchor to insert into holes you drill. Don't try to use the existing holes, don't drill new holes within 6 inches of the old holes.

Without knowing more about the wall it's impossible to say. "Sandy stone" isn't really a good description. Is it mortared stone blocks? Is it wood framed with stone facade? interior or exterior wall?

I've done many tub replacements and this will work fine. Just make sure you have a plan to insert the tub into that gap. Depending on the layout of the bathroom that can get tricky.

As far as I'm aware you cannot wire up a 110v receptacle to a stranded wire in a non-fixed location, so the fact the individual components are UL listed is irrelevant - this is definitely not code compliant.

It's also probably perfectly safe under reasonable use, but the problem with people is that they're unreasonable.

Get it tested for asbestos first if it's possibly older than 2000. If it's older than 1980 then it's much more likely.

It prevents essentially all wind driven rain from running into the top of the window. It definitely helps. That said, a properly constructed window using modern materials doesn't require this.

2 or 3 2x12s laminated together and then oriented along the zipline path will be just as strong as a single 12" round pole.

I'm not going around saying it's "safe", let's be clear. I'm saying that one exposure is very unlikely to kill you. It's obviously not good for you. But you're trying to say that one acute exposure gives you a not insignificant chance of developing mesothelioma. You should prove that, because I don't think most people find it reasonable.

One bad sunburn doesn't give you cancer. One bad radiation exposure does, and with extremely high likelihood. One bad asbestos exposure? Obviously it doesn't give everyone cancer. It clearly doesn't give most people cancer. So what percent of such cases lead to cancer?

Based on how many houses have asbestos in them and the length of time we spent handling it carelessly, I don't see a particularly significant number of cases. So show us your numbers. I can make my case pretty clear with general observations, but I will absolutely change my mind if actual research says otherwise.

Hey you're the one that claims to have written a thesis on the subject.

Do you dispute that a huge number of people have had singular exposure events to asbestos without developing mesothelioma? I assume not. Therefore it's reasonable to conclude that one exposure is very unlikely to be problematic. You argue otherwise, so prove it. Your position is the counterintuitive one.

I'm very open to being wrong about this. Can you provide some evidence that shows statistically significant mesothelioma cases from one time exposure? I feel like the burden of proof rests on the person making the more extreme, counter-intuitive claim here.

The evidence is relatively obvious - the vast majority of mesothelioma cases over the last 30 years can be traced to long term repeated exposure. Yet in the 60s through 80s there was a ton of asbestos usage, which means many, many one time or infrequent exposure events for homeowners, handymen and contractors. Yet almost none of them developed mesothelioma. So few did that it's not worth worrying about, you're more likely to die in a car crash.