WTAF would tire pressure have to do with anything? Weight is weight, gravity is gravity, do you think a 100lb bag of feathers differs from 100lb drum of water? 🤣

I’ve found that you have to feather / blend the homax can texture a good ways out into the wall to hide patches. In my experience it helps to soak the can in warm (not hot!) water before use to get a finer spray pattern, ymmv. Usually that + a quick knock-down w/ a drywall knife or a quick sand after, and I’ve been able to decently match the “orange peel” of our 1930s plaster doing repairs or even adding new drywall walls and wanting them to appear original.

I’m in upstate NY, my answer was to use 2.5” metal studs held 1” off the wall (put the bottom channel on sill plate foam) and to apply 3” of closed cell spray foam. This ends up dimensionally the same as doing 2x4 framing (3.5 actual) directly against the wall but providers an air and moisture barrier, the foam stiffens the studs insanely well, has no organic materials to mold or rot from moisture gained by contact with concrete, and provides an EXCEPTIONALLY flat surface to drywall - which ok in a workshop isn’t as important ;)

Speaking of workshop stuff - I’d install some cross bracing (can just zip screw some ply or furring strips, notch for the rolled metal edge) where you intend to wall mount anything heavy like a metal pegboard full of tools - you can still drill through a metal stud and use toggles but I prefer pre-bracing.