dominus_aranearum t1_jecqer4 wrote

What type of vacuum hose is it? Shop vac? Is it really a 2-1/2" hose or is that just the fitting that connects to the vacuum? I use 1-7/8" hoses with ends that fit my 2-1/2" shop vac inlets. The part that fits into shopvac accessories fits into a 2" Fernco and a 1-1/2" PVC pipe should fit into the end of a 1-1/2" Fernco fitting.

So, I use a 2" to 1-1/2" Fernco coupler to attach my 2-1/2" shop vac inlet via a 1-7/8" hose to a 1-1/2" PVC pipe.

Making a cyclone dust collector?


dominus_aranearum t1_jecpqnk wrote

I do. Both of my shop vacs have a 2-1/2" inlet and 1-7/8" hoses with a connector that fits the 2-1/2" vacuum inlet.

So it really depends upon where OP is getting his/her measurements from. I use a 2" to 1-1/2" Fernco coupler to attach my shopvac hose to 1-1/2" PVC.


dominus_aranearum t1_jecnmmw wrote

Keep in mind, doing drywall well the first or even tenth time is going to end in disappointment if your expectations are even remotely high. Mudding drywall is an art. You can learn the basics watching videos, but you'll only get better through loads of practice.

I also wouldn't recommend having started your first time with hotmud for anything other than filling large gaps. It's not nearly as forgiving as pre-mix taping, all-purpose or topping mud. It's also way harder to scrape or sand.


dominus_aranearum t1_jecn01t wrote

This all depends upon where you live, what the weather conditions are and your knowledge of minimum safety standards (code).

As a GC, I could build something that would be safe because I have the experience. As a novice, are you taking into account snow load, wind shear, uplift and other various weather situations? Roof slope? Drainage? You've now created an impervious area that depending upon your lot size vs. your current impervious coverage percentage, may exceed local regulations.

Additionally, attaching posts to deck joists, then adding a roof creates a completely different load on those joists. Typically, posting up for a deck roof, especially a detached structure, would have those posts carry all the way down to concrete piers where the piers are the proper size and depth for your local conditions.

One awning I built many years ago at the back of a house was listed as being in a 120mph wind belt. That required stronger and more connections. I wouldn't have known had I not made drawings and submitted them for the permit.

So, no, your plan is not okay. You need to get with your local building department first.


dominus_aranearum t1_j9smtpk wrote

So, your fan isn't coming with a reducer like I was thinking. It comes with an adapter to go from a 4" oval to 3" round duct. The area of the both sides is probably very similar but without knowing the width or height of the oval, I can't be certain. This fan is designed to work with this adapter.

Your air blowback could be due to duct blockage or otherwise reduced throughput. Typically, there are maximum duct lengths and number of elbow (bends) allowed before throughput is reduced. Without putting eyes on your ducting, you've really no way to know. I don't know if HVAC companies will scope your duct or not, but I'm fairly certain they can clean them.


dominus_aranearum t1_j9serak wrote

Not sure why the fan would come with the 3" to 4" adapter unless the fan output 3" and you were attaching to a 4" duct. Or it is a fan with adjustable CFM settings, one of which was low enough for a 3" duct.

The concern is that you will overwork the fan motor and shorten it's life. You also get the problem you described.


dominus_aranearum t1_j6l7bto wrote

>backing up into the dishwasher and then entering your clean water supply. This is water that you drink from

No. Nobody is drinking water from the dishwasher. It doesn't re-enter the water supply of your house.

Contaminated water could re-enter your dishwasher if it doesn't drain properly. The air gap does prevent this, but not for the reason you state.


dominus_aranearum t1_j6gmv43 wrote

You started out your post by saying you're not a handy person. Please take it from a professional contractor and everyone else here. It is a horrible idea to drill a hole through a door for this purpose.

Not only would you be creating a cold spot and water intrusion spot. The hole would need to be bigger than 3/4" as the plug end of a power cord requires 1-1/4" to pass through. Multiple cords equals a bigger hole.

Additionally, you're creating a serious trip hazard.

More information is needed to determine what exactly it is you're trying to do. People hook up generators (solar or otherwise) to their electrical panels but there are absolutely necessary safety requirements to doing so. If you're adamant about running a power cord from outside to inside, open a window and run it that way. If needed, cut a board to fit a partially opened window and drill a hole in it for your cords.

Just please do not put a hole in your french doors.


dominus_aranearum t1_j6fcxfl wrote

>saw very large main at a horse farm that left a crater big enough to hide a school bus in the ~30 seconds it took to shut down.

I used to build houses. Heard an excavator hit a water main in a cul-de-sac. Not sure the size but it made a very big hole very quickly. Took a few minutes to find someone with the proper tool to shut water off for the entire street. Good thing it was at the top of a hill. =)


dominus_aranearum t1_j6egqb7 wrote

If before the meter, I get they wouldn't see it and it would depend how long a leak had been there and how often the water company monitored the difference between their output meter and a homeowners use meter. Ours are read bi-monthly.

We have glacial till where I am so digging holes by hand is super fun, more rock than dirt in each shovelful. Can't see sink holes happening here either unless there was some solid surface above it. However, I have seen abundant amounts of rain overwhelm drainage and undermine the ground around houses from time to time. I've also seen rain water running down a hill a few inches under the surface, only noticed when it was coming up through a friends water meter box. We also have underground springs that will wash stuff out over time.

It will be interesting to see if the findings are newsworthy. Not counting on it.

Thank you for the actual conversation. I wish more people could dialogue.


dominus_aranearum t1_j6eaa6f wrote

Hence the reason I said location dependent. While I've been to Long Island, I'm not familiar with their meter location. Thank you for the information.

Even without any information on the investigation, I lean towards this being more related to the recent weather than a water supply leak. How does somebody not notice the enormous leap in their water bill?


dominus_aranearum t1_j6e9me0 wrote

Nope, nobody asked for my opinion. Nor did anyone ask for the opinion of the person I replied to. Except they didn't state it as an opinion but as a fact, throwing out an accusation against the city. I recognize that this is Reddit and that there are all manner of idiots behind keyboards up here, myself included, but just as in real life I don't stand for misinformation or unfounded accusations, I don't on Reddit either.

I'm not driven by caring what others think about me. I'm not driven by Reddit karma. It is more important to me that the correct information is given more weight than incorrect information. Unfounded accusations destroy people's lives. Even when the facts come out at a later point, the damage has been done. I recognize that an individual person has not been accused and the city won't suffer any harm by the comment I replied to, the principal is the same.

We live in a world of propaganda. We live in a world where people have serious difficulty differentiating between truth and lies. We live in a world where people tolerate rather than accept. These are major factors that on a grand scale lead to the downward spiral the world is currently facing. The history that repeats itself over and over. People get complacent. People accept lies and abuse because they don't want to get involved. I'm done doing that. Changes have to start at the smallest level. Even one anonymous person to another.

Besides, this is a 20 comment post. I'm allowed to rant and get it off my chest so I can get on with my day. While I appreciate the concern, your cheerful disposition would be better suited helping somebody who bleeds negativity.

Good day.


dominus_aranearum t1_j6e0hhl wrote

I am fun.

My whole point was that without being there and looking at the evidence, it's pointless to say what caused it or start pointing fingers. Nowhere did I give my take as a 100% correct. I gave options for potential causes that it could be from a broken pipe or from weather-related drainage issues. I also gave the opinion that it is of course location dependent, but blaming the city for not wanting to take responsibility was ridiculous at this point given the lack of investigation details.

But hey, if offering my experienced opinion and calling out an armchair skeptic who automatically blames the city with zero evidence gives me down votes, no worries, I'll take them all day long.


dominus_aranearum t1_j6c9itc wrote

I want to mention the temperature issue since no one else has yet.

What color is the container? How hot does metal sitting in the sun get where you are? I'm in the Seattle area and two summers ago, we had some 100+ degree days which is really rare around here. I had the fortune of temporarily storing some electronics outdoors for a bit in an area that received direct sunlight for the second half of the day. Black computer cases. On our 104 degree day, I noticed the plastic on front of some of the cases had warped. On our 108 degree day, I measured the temperature on the surface of the cases at 170 degrees. So while that didn't warp the plastic, the cases with metal directly behind the plastic did warp the plastic.

So, just be very aware of the potential temperatures and store your electronic accordingly. Possibly a good few coats of paint designed to reflect heat (the kind used on the tops of school buses) would be a good idea.


dominus_aranearum t1_j6bxski wrote

>No, it was the water pipe leak. They just don't want to pay to fix this guy's yard.

Says the non-judgemental redditor water erosion expert who's never been onsite.

First, you've even less of a clue than the city.

Second, given that it's in the front yard, it's more than likely the homeowner's responsibility if it's a broken pipe, not the city. Same goes for rain water. Only way I could see this being on the city is if their drains overflowed, came onto the homeowner's property, then miraculously decided to wash away the soil under the lawn. Not likely.

Might be location dependent but where I am, city is only responsibly up to the meter. Most meters are near the property line, not just outside the front door.

Edit: I am absolutely astounded at my downvotes. Don't really care but reddit's moronic hivemind has really taken the cake here. I have to seriously wonder how many of the downvotes have come from people with actual experience in, knowledge of or familiarity with home ownership or home construction.

Given my experience with both and also my experience with fixing water supply breaks between the meter and a house, I'm going to double down with my original comment. The actual lack of intelligence is here is mind numbing.

For whoever commented about water meters being on houses and that maybe I was used to a more rural setting where the meter is at the road, is Seattle rural enough for you?


dominus_aranearum t1_j5qu6s0 wrote

Realistically, you should add a sub panel.

Otherwise, you cannot replace AFCI/GFCI breakers with non AFCI/GFCI tandems. I'm not even sure Eaton makes a tandem with AFCI/GFCI capabilities.

That said, I'm honestly surprised that having a separate breaker for your smoke alarms passed inspection. They should go on a common circuit so that way if the circuit trips, you know that your smokies aren't functional. A main lighting circuit is common. So, you could free up one space there if there isn't anything else of concern on that circuit.

You could also combine two bedrooms. Not sure if the entire bedroom (outlets and lighting) is on one circuit or what, but it's odd to have them separated that way. Are the bathrooms combined with the bedrooms completely? Or just the lights? Code doesn't allow for bathroom outlets to share with any other fixtures other than other bathrooms, and even then it is limited to counter top outlets only. Only way bathroom lights and counter top outlets can be on the same circuit is if that bathroom is the only thing on that circuit.

Additionally, you could combine the dishwasher and disposal into one circuit. I'm not a fan of it but as long as it's a 20A circuit, it's allowed.

If you decided to combine anything, you should really understand load balancing before doing so. Adding 60A to one side may or may not be a good idea.