imanze

imanze t1_j8wato0 wrote

Virtualization would not allow you to run a different processor instruction set so no. Microsoft has been shipping an ARM version for a long time now. This I would imagine is windows 11 ARM. All the same features and anything compiled for uwp or specifically with an arm compiled version will work. Running x86 compiled applications on ARM or vise versa would require emulation which is significantly slower.

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imanze t1_j5mwwr3 wrote

Numbers are a bit off, for example an rpi4 will idle around 2.875 watts and peak around 6.4 watts ( https://linuxhint.com/power-consumption-raspberry-pi/ ) compare this with a NUC NUC6i5SYK that idles around 10 watts and peaks to around 50 watt ( https://www.legitreviews.com/intel-nuc-nuc6i5syk-skylake-mini-pc-review_181093/4 )

Let’s say you are at idle 80% of the time and peak for 20%, should be around 18 watts for the nuc and 3.58 watt for the rpi4. Typically if you are running some sort of service you will need to run this 24/7, and let’s take an example electrical cost (mine) of 24 cents per kwh for electrical with distribution fee. That’s around $3.11 per month or $37 per year for the NUC or 62 cents per month / or 7.44 per year for the rpi.

Now don’t get me wrong there are applications for both but with how many various systems I already have it’s not a insignificant difference depending on application.

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imanze t1_j0lqgs7 wrote

that’s not the wording of the code. Exception: Where the 20-ampere circuit supplies a single bathroom, outlets for other equipment within the same bathroom shall be permitted to be supplied in accordance with 210.23(A)(1) and (A)(2).

OUTLETS can be shared, OUTLETS is the key word you changed.

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imanze t1_j0kcu6p wrote

This is definitely false for new code, sorry. An old house is grandfathered in, new installs are not. It’s a moot point regardless even if you ignore code it’s just bad practice. If you plug in a hairdryer into a lighting circuit with the best LED lights it WILL flicker. No questions about it.

Regardless the code says, outlet is on a different circuit from lights, so 20amp for outlets and 20 for lights IF shared by the fan, but again why share? Run a 15 for lights and 15 for fan. I’m not sure what you mean by a “waste of an circuit” unless OP has limited space in the main panel the only waste is 50-100 feet of 14-2 which is honestly around the price of running a single 12-2…

edit link to relevant code, granted from spruce but i’m sure you can find the relevant NEC code https://www.thespruce.com/easily-wire-a-bathroom-1152676

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imanze t1_j0k33hk wrote

This is a relatively common but annoying problem with cheap LED drivers. Inductive loads (such as fan motors) on the same circuit as an LED driver can cause the capacitors within the driver to discharge when the inductive load is shut off. This results in a brief flash of the light. It is not dangerous, just annoying.

As a side suggestion and question, how deep of a reno is this? Are the walls back to the studs and how hard would it be to run new wire? I highly suggest running 2 new circuits, back to the panel. First off you really should have bathroom outlets on a separate circuit from the lights. It should also be a 20 amp circuit and a GFCI outlet, this is standard NEC code. If you think the lights flickering when the fan turns off is annoying, try plugging in a hair dryer into your outlet shared by the LED lights… prepare to be extra annoyed. I would then add another 15 amp circuit for the general lights and keep the existing circuit for just the fan. I don’t believe code requires the fan and lights to be on separate circuits but it will solve the issue you are having and running 1 circuit vs 2 to the same location is fairly minimal additional work.

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imanze t1_ix2ty9x wrote

You don’t pay for grid access you pay for delivery and distribution. That cost is usually set per khw on top of the electrical rate. With solar you’d still almost always still be using grid power thus using both of those. If there is (i don’t know CA rules) an additional fee just for having solar that’s a bit fucked

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imanze t1_iqu76pm wrote

I’m sorry.. I don’t mean to be a dick but are you saying your solution of a constant and active leak was to remove an awesome plaster ceiling and replace it with a drop down ceiling so that you could just rip them out as they got water damaged? … Are you planning on addressing the leak? Disposable ceilings, now i’ve literally heard it all.

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