jeffersonairmattress t1_jdbtqie wrote

Prayer gave me back my knees. All my life I’d been last in sports, I’d run in circles instead of straight for a fly ball or a pass- and don’t get me started on my ten minute hockey career. Well, the doctor said while actually laughing and breaking the news that I had two left knees. My mother wept. I never saw her again.

I wondered what to do. i knew I needed help, but everywhere I turned was… right. I was making no progress. I paced one square metre of the streets for hours, deep in thought. And then in church I saw the light. I prayed for the ability to take the left path, others yelling, “No! You idiot- you mean the right path!”

Little did they know. And one day, my prayers were answered! A local lunatic shot up a daycare full of ripe little knee donors!

It turned out that one was a match for my preferred skin tone, so I grabbed it before anyone from some other religion could.

Thanks to Jeebus, I was pirouetting around that kid’s funeral like I would any other Tuesday- only this time, I spun counter clockwise.


jeffersonairmattress t1_jcrcz85 wrote

So you don’t want to hear this but you had all the tools to open this door. Clothes hanger hook behind the latch bolt and the flat screwdriver slowly prying it out of the jamb, maybe 0.025” at a time, but eventually you will expose the slanted face and can use the hook or knife to open it.

This latch bolt is only sprung- it’s not a deadbolt.


jeffersonairmattress t1_jccdbfj wrote

Drill a 1/8" hole down the riveted end. Squish the peened-out wings of the rivet together with vise grips. Punch it out. Take the gear to a small machine shop and ask for a flat disc of delrin bored and machined to the same OD. Trace the existing gear onto a piece of maskiing tape, slap that on your disc and bandsaw and file the profile.

It's a 9 tooth gear with what looks like a 14.5 degree pressure angle. A dividing head (and I'd guess module 3 cutter) will get you very close if you have a milling machine. You don't even need to have dividing plates because with 9 teeth your divisions are bang on 40 degrees apart- you could just paste on a printed sticker of a protarctor and work to its lines.


jeffersonairmattress t1_jccbtr2 wrote

It drives the speedo cable. It would be cheaper to grab a display and proximity sensor to count revolutions of the wheel than to build this gear. It has to be ridiculously tall-toothed to register in the perforated disc- looks like a 14.5 degree pressure angle and no longer a standard gear profile. Pretty easy to just bore a flat disc of delrin to the same OD and bandsaw&file the teeth- it doesn't need to be perfect.


jeffersonairmattress t1_jccazts wrote

I just made a similar gear out of brass, using a milling machine and a dividing head.

The problem with this gear is that you are unlikely to find a replacement; it looks like a 14.5 degree pressure angle and most gear shops are set up for 20 degrees or higher. Ther's nothing available off the shelf. I could make this gear, but it would be a $450 gear.


jeffersonairmattress t1_jbn7roy wrote

I thought these carriers were basically a funnel that directed blasts straight up. But they mention “close the hatch;” I wonder if they amplified the destruction by using the giant pressure vessel they created.

Nobody asked “25 pounds of what?”

25 pounds of black powder is different from 25 pounds of TNT which itself pales in comparison to C4. These jackasses glanced at some box labels, figured everything was as powder-dense as ladyfingers and ALSO went way over design capacity for THAT assumption; idiot arrogance likely causing some senior nitwit to assume “these things are always over-designed because they think we’re idiots- let’s prove what this baby can really handle.”


jeffersonairmattress t1_jb5udhi wrote

They sort of obliquely refer to it, but omitted the attraction of clay to the surface of the grog/sand particles- the clay would rather stick to each particle than allow gravity or other force to separate them. this bond is “fluxed” by moisture while workable (a pug or other milling process acting just like a mason back-buttering stone/brick/tile) but once smeared all over each particle, the drying phase doesn’t weaken the bond and the particles of sand are each captured by clay, the clay wants to stick to itself and the sand so it cannot shrink- the loss of moisture instead creating tiny pores and a lattice of strong bonds like a huge brick cube. During firing, the clay is welded/“brazed” to each particle so you get enormous compressive strength.


jeffersonairmattress t1_j73in5g wrote

Sharkbites actually work better with PEX than with copper. Especially near a shower or other closed areas prone to getting condensation on the pipe. The little stainless teeth bite nicely into PEX and the OD of PEX stays smooth against the O ring and can't abrade it. Moist air near a sharkbite on copper puts two dissililar metals in a weak electrolyte- the stainless and copper battery causing copper oxide buildup that can eventually ruin the O ring seal against the pipe or erode the copper until there is nothing solid to bite and the assembly leaks.


jeffersonairmattress t1_j6h0h1o wrote

Turn bike upside down. Shield everything with bits of scrap steel, hit the aluminum kickstand piece underneath that the flat socket hex head screw is threaded into with the hottest torch you have, whack either the exposed end of the screw or the aluminum with a hammer, or whack the head with a punch and hammer, try again. You want to shock the steel fastener and loosen the aluminum oxide that is gluing it to the crappy alloy the kickstand is made of.


jeffersonairmattress t1_j6f706g wrote

Form fins? Knock them down with a diamond cup wheel in a 7” angle grinder. You will kill a 5” grinder and a 9” is too heavy to hump around a vertical wall. Get a LOT of tarps and have it wet sandblasted if you want a quality finish on it. Unless the paint has lead in it, in which case do nothing but encapsulate with a shellac-containing primer and paint. Do not grind or sand yourself if it contains lead.


jeffersonairmattress t1_j5zqnw1 wrote

Reply to comment by composites123 in DIY Travel Bo-Staff by composites123

If it's a hardwood and you have a power drill, leave the ends long, chuck on a finishing nail driven into the long end and have a friend spin it in a plastic v-notched guide while you hold a sanding block to chamfer.

For your assembly guide, if pieces are straight and round you only need a piece of angle iron or similar long V-section thing and it will align perfectly. Use a small compass or miter square to find center and punch it before pilot drilling a 1/8" hole through a guide block set perpendicular.


jeffersonairmattress t1_j50tzih wrote

Fabricator here. You are right- red scotchbrite pad on a linear (pneumatic stroke) sander or handheld pad or scotchbrite belt on a belt sander. Use a length of wood as a fence to keep your strokes parallel. This garbage cladding is super thin so you are right to warn of burning it so if using a flap wheel, keep it moving. These Scratches are about as shallow as this #4 brushed finish and there’s no need to knock it down with 60 grit (which is far too coarse unless starting with a casting)