keestie t1_jdpv2s8 wrote

Wobble can be a million things; wheel balance is one of those things, but only one. Could be alignment, bad steering dampener, bad power steering system, bulged tire, loose steering components, loose suspension components, or brake disc warping, and that's not even a full list.


keestie t1_jb5o1l7 wrote

All great questions! The easiest way to deal with the repair would be to use an existing wire with a plug on the end, no pause button, and you could get that from another damaged headphone device.

It would probably have three wires in the main cable and then after the splitter, each side would have two wires. Of the three in the main cable, one carries left signal, one carries right signal, and one is ground, aka return; ground is the only wire that would actually split at the splitter. Each headphone would get two wires; one signal, and one return/ground. A pause button complicates the situation; I don't know how those are wired, and as far as I know they work differently for Apple vs Android.

As another person said, these very thin wires are often varnished; each individual strand of wire is covered in a flexible varnish, which insulates it. That varnish needs to be removed before you can solder the wire; I know it is possible but I don't know how. I'd imagine it's done chemically, since the strands are far too thin to withstand any attempt to physically remove the varnish. If I were to try it without finding that info, I'd try burning the varnish off first, then cleaning it very well with a wire brush, and lots of solder flux. Not sure if that would work, but it *seems* like it might. I've never successfully tried anything like this because those wires are so damnedly thin and delicate, I gave up when I tried as a kid.

Are you trying to learn soldering skills, general repair skills, electronics skills, all of the above? Your answers might suggest a more simple starter project.


keestie t1_jb5g5js wrote

I hate to say it but unless you want this to be a learning experience and you don't care about price, you'd be better off buying new headphones.

Also, if the solder keeps breaking, the solder isn't the problem. The wire should be held securely at a previous point; if the strain is on the solder, then that previous point has failed. Every modern electrical device has strain relievers where a moving wire connects to a device, and those strain relievers are meant to take the physical forces and protect the wire.

Looking at the pics in that Amazon link, it looks like this device is cheaply made, and so it has no visible strain relievers, which is probably a huge part of the problem. If you're dedicated to fixing these headphones even if it gets more expensive than a new pair, you should improve the strain relief situation. If I'm fixing a broken or missing strain reliever, I'll often use wraps of electrical tape, built up to increase the thickness. It doesn't look great, but it is something. A better solution is shrink-tubing, in layers, but that gets even more pricy. Not super expensive, just a bit more pricy.


keestie t1_j87rq0b wrote

I don't know what happened in your life, I wasn't there, but I do know that trying to find and kill bedbugs is the best way to let an infestation spread. They are nearly impossible to find, they reproduce at a very fast rate, and they can lay dormant inside of fabric or mattresses for very long periods of time.

You may not have meant this as advice, but I just want to make sure that nobody reading this takes this as advice.


keestie t1_j2a1fwv wrote

Ok so if you're gonna do this again, ideally you should practice drilling into a piece of scrap wood. If the drill bit broke going into wood, it means your control of the drill really needs practice and you put pressure on the bit in the wrong direction. Try to think about pushing the bit into the hole you're making in a *perfectly* straight line, making sure not to bend the bit, not to put any pressure on the bit that isn't directly along the axis of the hole.

There's a challenge to this, because your hand isn't directly behind the bit when you hold the drill, so if you push your hand directly towards the wall without compensating, you will break the bit. You can see how this happens if you take the drill, and without pulling the trigger, just push the drill against a surface with a limp wrist. You'll immediately see the drill change angle. That angle change breaks bits. You need to compensate for that tendency or you'll keep breaking bits.

This difficulty is very normal for someone who hasn't done a lot of drilling. Breaking small bits is a rite of passage tbh.


keestie t1_j27nq2m wrote

Is it for sure wood that you're screwing into? When you drilled the hole, did wood chips come out? If the drill bit broke going into wood, you need to practice drilling into wood without bending or stressing the bit.

BTW, a drill bit is a device made for drilling holes, and a driver bit is a device meant for putting screws in. Some people will call a driver bit a drill bit, but that's incorrect and confusing.


keestie t1_j1jm64x wrote

Doomerism is a perspective and a set of ideas. Those ideas may well be a response to predictions about the future, but to pretend that they are the only possible response is very silly. You have control over your response, and you are responsible for it. It's not just something unavoidable that happens to you, and it isn't without consequence either.

Yes, the world is indeed on a dark path, one that is unique in our history. No, that path's end is not absolutely determined yet.

Imagine living thru the fall of Rome, the ravages of the Bubonic Plague, or the colonization of the Americas. Absolute apocalypse wherever you turned. Yet some people managed to maintain their sanity and ethics. That is our job right now.