Not exactly. You're right, it doesn't have a standing pilot. You're also wrong, it doesn't have an HSI. What it does have is an on-demand spark ignition pilot (see page 32).

It's not so bad. You're going to want to buy a couple bags of frozen peas, before the procedure. Do this yourself so you know it got done.

Yup, last one of the day gets to keep the tools.

Fair enough, I just know we were allowed up to 3 feet for appliance hook up.

As long as the flex can provide the amount of gas the generator needs, seems like you're good to go.

...why would their basement fill with gas because the stove went out?

15 feet of flex is a lot of flex and, I think, against code.

What you should do is measure about 15 times, then 10 or so more times to verify, then go up to the orange box, they'll cut and thread for you. Rent a pair of 18" pipe wrenches while you're there.

Or hire it out, I know it sucks, but they'll do a better job than you and you won't run into problems with legality or blown up houses later.

NGL, I'm not familiar with that control. This is a best guess situation. The lights are erratic, which makes me lean toward a faulty control...

However, there's no harm in cleaning the pilot and sensor and it's much, much cheaper than replacing the control, ($220+) so it's worth trying that first.

The manual for this control can be found here.

Page 49 says: All lights flashing - Pilot not established after 4 attempts.

So, either the pilot is not lighting, or it's not being sensed properly. My money is on a dirty flame sensor.

Either call someone to do it for you,

or

Turn off the gas and power to the unit. Figure out what you need to undo to get the burner tube that has the pilot assembly attached to it out. Undo that stuff. Clean the sensor (see page 32). Put it back together and test.

"HVAC A/C gas" is not, by default, natural gas, my dude.

You got me to click, so that's something I guess.

I'm not an tile expert by any means, but imo that is definitely going to need to be decoupled.

It's a not a huge sub, but r/tile does exist, try asking over there.

If you look in the furnace, you should find that the wires go to R and W, which is where they should be hooked up to in the new thermostat.

Pro tip: if you hook the wires up before attaching the stat to the wall, you'll have an easier time and do a neater job.

I went through two of that style of faucet, where the whole thing moves, and had the same problem of them becoming hard to move.

Then I was at Costco one day and spotted this faucet.

The flow rate is a little less than I would like and the spray pattern takes some getting used to, but the base doesn't turn, only the top portion does, and the extra height comes in handy, and I think it looks pretty cool. I've had it over a year and don't regret it at all.

So, if you're taking yours out to clean it, give some consideration to replacing it with one that doesn't suck.

Can you please just take pictures of (and post):

The furnace board where the thermostat wires connect.

The terminals of the thermostat you're trying to install.

The terminals of your current stat.

I think you have a weak pilot and the updraft established by the hot fireplace basically blows it out after the main flame goes out.

I would start by pulling the pilot assembly out of the fireplace, then disassemble the pilot and clean with water and a little brush if you have something like that.

There's no reason to get the thermopile wet, just wipe it off.

There's a good chance the pilot orifice is partially blocked, if you have some 18 gauge stranded wire, you might be able to poke a single strand through the tiny hole. It's usually easier to just replace them. There should be a number on it, buy the same size.

It's a fresh air make-up, the idea being that new homes are so sealed up, if fresh air isn't introduced through a vent, rather than all the gaps, leaks, and shitty build quality, people might get woozy, unless they happen to open an outside door once or twice a day.

Anyway, it would be better if there was a barometric damper on the vent so that it only lets in air when the pressure inside the house is less than outside.

Better still, they're now hooking the end of the duct to the return, so that the outside air gets heated or cooled instead of just being dumped into the home at -15F.

You didn't hear it from me, but most people just stuff them with towels or find a bucket that fits.

Oh, and, no, CO isn't going to be sucked into your home, ffs, the furnace would know about that and turn itself off. That's actually one of the very few things a furnace is smart enough to do.

Go around your house and decide which light switch is your favorite to use, then make the new ones that far away from the door.

I find that if they're too close to the door, they feel awkward, like, I have to stop and actually hit the darn thing, where as if they are a reasonable distance away, I can just flick my hand back and get them on the way in.

Great news!

Thanks for the update :)

I can see the tab that is retaining the bulb cover in the picture you posted.

Stick a butter knife in there and use it to gently press the tab toward the center while also pulling down a bit.

And for the love of god, please clean that nasty thing while you're up there.

At this point, if he told me "I am standing in front of you" while standing in front of me, I would want confirmation from a third party.

CO alarms are commonly installed in homes, CO2 alarms are not.

CO2 is a common misspelling of CO. So common that google just assumes you're an idiot and gives you results for CO alarms.

OP has a CO problem. Possibly a cracked heat exchanger, if they have a forced air furnace. Or a bad flue pipe, or negative pressure pulling exhaust back inside the home.

[the] "showerheads leak from where the water should be coming out"

As in: "the water dribbles out rather than spraying"?

Is this a new problem, or has it been this way since you moved in?

If it's a new problem, is it cold where you live right now?

If it's new and it's cold, it could be a mostly frozen pipe. Turn the water on in the shower to halfway between hot and cold (so both lines are running) and just leave it for 30 minutes. Does the flow improve?

It is really weird...is it still under warranty?

That's...odd, is there a crack through the threads in the water heater?

Did you put on teflon tape, tighten it as much as you could, then go one more time around?

Teflon tape doesn't seal the joint, it lubricates the threads so you can get a tighter fit - the thread on thread contact is what makes the seal. If you look closely, you'll notice the threaded part of the TPR valve is slightly tapered.

Did you adjust it after installing it?

Doing so can break the seal.

It's great to watch while I'm cooking dinner. I check in every once in a while and say things like "why are they cooking...food?"

The MC takes a little too much pleasure in booting people, but other than that is a solid dick.

You're right about the set screw being under that logo thingy.

There won't be a packing nut on this type of faucet.