"WD40" means "The fortieth formulation we've tried for the purpose of shooting it into an oil well and occupying the space where the oil had been; must do this better than water just seeping into a void; in fact, must specifically do this better than water."

Sorry, not true.

Chemical reactions between the potato and the metal things you jam into the potato cause electrical energy to be made. If you ate the potato, you'd be eating the residue of these chemical reactions, which, by the way, are probably poisonous.

Yes. Will you do it correctly? Not without some research. Incorrectly means the lights won't light and/or a wire that should be a ground connection is hot and thus a shock hazard.

Look up European power plugs and report here the kind or kinds of plug(s) your lights have. Maybe someone will be brave and will tell you how to connect a US plug to the light's wires.

I'm not sure this is well expressed, but try to imagine the steps and how it all fits together.

If gluing doesn't work, try this: smack in the middle of the length of the tube, drill two holes, one on each side of the tube, and run a screw into the wood through each hole. You'll then have a wood piece with SS material over it, with screws going through the SS ring into the wood. The screws keep the ring from rotating.

To cut, clamp the whole thing in a lathe. Turn the lathe and cut the far end of the ring so it has a perfect edge. Then move that tool/blade closer to the mounting screws and cut through the SS. That will give you your first ring. Move the blade one step closer to the mounting screws and make another cut: this will give you your second ring. Continue until you've run out of material.

I've never seen what you're describing (me being in the US), but that exact construction is for safety from shock and sparks, that is, personal electrocution and home fire. You have to use that box thing to get around the life safety protection offered by the initial outlet.

Is there an actual safe way to install power receptacle(s) where you want them? Maybe these details are like this so you'll have to look at the real possibilities of fire and electrocution, though I'm sure not everyone understands why it is as it is.

This is not for a 3-way switch.

IF (BIG IF) this was previously wired exactly right, the bare wire (ground) is properly wired. The two blacks SHOULD be power into the switch and power on to another device. The single black wire should be hot to the light's hot lead.

I'm concerned that maybe the previous person made this work but got the colors wrong, creating a shock hazard.

Hey, just wondering: at what point do fractional years change from number of months to decimal months?

Please clarify.

A careful reading of the thread title reveals that in the single year 2022, humanity used an amount of coal greater that in all of human history.

I'm betting you mean "an amount of coal greater than in any other single year of human history."

Be careful what you write: words have meanings and meanings have power.

Five minutes after I wrote the above, I ran across this lead sentence from another thread: TIL that under Writers Guild of America rules the phrases "written by", "story by", "screen story by" and "screenplay by" all have different, and precise, meanings.

Then, three minutes later, I found this: https://www.reddit.com/r/MaliciousCompliance/comments/zpf90y/where_are_the_spoons/

As I said, words are important!

Excellent help here.

By the way, "flathead" does not refer to the kind of screwdriver end that you turn the screw with. It refers to the way the head of the screw interfaces with the surface you're mounting in. A flathead screw is flat across. For comparison of the concept, look at a round head screw. The head comes up from the mounting surface and there's almost a half sphered of metal there. Its finish is round. An oval head has a finish shape between flathead and round head.

What you're talking about is variously called a slot drive. As google says elsewhere, "Slot screw drives have a single horizontal indentation (the slot) in the fastener head and is driven by a "common blade" or flat-bladed screwdriver."

Don't worry about this too too much. It's a common error.

Now or later.

As for doing it now, everybody thinks it's a project in process, so even if it's a total delay, it will be acceptable.

As for doing it later, a nice finished room will fall apart at some time that you have no control over. This (and you) will then be seen as a screw up and as an event totally separate from your progress as of now.

So I vote DO It Now.

How's your weather? Did the water line freeze?

0. Take all safety precautions. If you get a shock, call an electrician.

1. Did it ever work?

2. If so, what changed? Where? In what way?

3. It's not a bulb. It's most likely called a fixture, or some other name indicating that several things are wired together.

4. Contact the fixture's manufacturer, if possible, for instructions. Instructions will show you what voltages and connections you should find.

5. Do you have two more of these things in the house? If you do, you can use a voltmeter to compare how/if those connections compare to your problem.

No, it for sure ridiculously does not.

The mysterious "bimetallic strip" consists of two pieces of metal bonded together. The metals do not expand or contract at the same rate as one another, so when the air in the room changes temperature, the bimetallic strip bends, shifting the position of the glass bulb and hence the mercury... when the mercury moves such that it connects together the two wires at the left side of the bulb, the heater comes on.

Picky detail here: First, all of the parts for this wiring should be rated for 15 amps.

EDIT: I missed the fact that you're describing everything in terms of 12 gauge wire, which is to say, the wire gauge and all other details that are appropriate for 20 amp circuits. My experience has only been with 15 amp GFCIs, so that's what I wrote about. It doesn't matter which amperage rating you wire for, as long as it's done properly. One example of this "properly" is that if the feed Romex were 14 gauge, you would not be allowed to wire up the rest of it using 12 gauge. The way to think about this is: As you go further away from the panel, you either use the same wire gauge or smaller wire gauge (see my note somewhere else here... smaller gauge means larger wire gauge number).

Second, your final drawing shows the correct wiring but... look up a 20 amp outlet. Your drawing intends to show outlets rated 20 amps, where the hot plug holes are vertically oriented and the neutral plug holes are horizontally oriented. But it shows 15 amp sockets, where the hot and the neutral holes are both vertically oriented. This is minor in this discussion, but if someone decides to get this exact hardware and wire it up EXACTLY as shown, there can be difficulties. (Plus, this particular set of wiring parts should be 15 amp rated, not 20 amp.)

Don't be confused when you read "(if less than 14 gauge,...)."

I know how this should be wired but I don't know how to interpret the part in parentheses above. See, a wire that is smaller in diameter, which could be described as "less," has a HIGHER size number; a wire that is larger in diameter has a LOWER size number. For instance, 14 gauge wire is thicker than 16 gauge wire.

First, let me say that I'm a parent, and my kids have survived me into their forties with no health problems. Now read the description carefully. Then notice that the possible offender in the cup is described as a dot. This dot has some (small amount) of lead in it. So a spot that has a dot is the problem? Why, no! The problem is that if the cup breaks apart, a person MAY come into contact with this dot. Any decent, or even quarter-decent parent would remove a broken cup from a child's hand.

So there's a recall over a dot on a spot, maybe touched by a tot, which, as problems go, in my book, is not.

I didn't start with the rhyme, really. It just happened.

How can you tell how much time an upgrade will save? If you don't like the changes, how do you eliminate the changes you just made?

Be a better cat than he/she is. Ignore her. Put down her food, then sit nearby and read.

A recent comment here was that someone's rescue cat finally came near them, some five years after they adopted her. Or him.

Persevere.

Cut all of the other posts 1/4" shorter than they are; that is, admit you made a mistake, go back to square one, make all posts match.

Also supply to us the printing shown at the bottom left of the image. You want advice and you're not telling us everything you know!

Super!

Many companies use more than one OEM. That means Original Equipment Manufacturer, and "original" unfortunately means they're not all the same. Hence some variability in construction etc. quality.

In what way? Come on, when someone figures out some of the answer, ask about it! (OP should have shared the details, really....)

Wouldn't let her back in the house until she arrived....

That's the normal course of events.

Try reversing tge pair of wires going too the LED.