Hacksaw a channel vertically into the head to make it a flat head screw bolt. Then oil it. Something penetrative. Then leave it a few minutes. Then turn it with a flat head screw driver.

Well; if you want to make a mirror finish you must sand. But I reserve that effort for boats. For walls; sand if it feels rough or “hairy” otherwise just paint nicely and maybe tip off.

Drone swarms are already a thing I believe. Just not being deployed yet.

Make your join before you finish the shaping. That way you guarantee centre. Finding centre is easy tho if you understand mathematics. If you have a circle end; measure the longest line you can internally. Do this at several points. Where they cross is the centre. But yeah; this will fail, woodworking was correct. First real impact and you will have two short sticks with a screw in one end of one of them and a shattered end on the other.

Looks decent, seems like it can run on a track also for those long straight lines. Yeah I would have to get a genny if I needed power tools, only thing I have on battery is a small drill/screwdriver combo. But I mostly use hand tools anyway or a bandsaw, I make boats and since I can’t afford my own boatyard I tend to live and work in someone else’s workshop, they tend to have to big stuff nicely set up so I just turn up with my personal edges tools etc. they are paying me for my knowledge more than anything tbh.

Battery packs…. Circular saw… this combo of words hurts me.

Negative to the tape is the edges of your seam have a lip. It will be shallow but it IS there.

This is a weird one; look at the grain, is your cut following it? Also turn off the blade oscillation if it has it, and turn the speed down and go slower. If you have a good pencil line to follow you don’t even really need guides or rails, but without photos of your setup can’t tell if your rail guides are set up right. Try freehanding it down a pencil line you put on with a straightedge. A tracksaw would be ideal or a bandsaw if you know anyone. But a jigsaw is possible. It’s just the worst power tool for the job.

Hacksaw it with a thin blade. If you have any manual skill that it. Should be easy, as long as you can keep a straight cut line.

This works; if you have £2700 to spend on a stroller you probably don’t have much to stress about.

What’s wrong with the available ones? They cost almost nothing… and are more compact.

Yes, DEhumidify, don’t make it more humid.

Well, once you are done sanding and have cleaned the dust off, don’t forget to tape the doorframe and floor with some masking tape, leave it there once primer dries, then put your topcoat on, might want to “feather” the edge between new paint and old paint so there’s no hard line between the two, wait for that to be touch dry and THEN remove the masking tape. Much easier than trying to clean up paint drips and spatters after the fact.

Whoever filled that is a right joker. What a crappy job. First I would take a sharp edge and trim the inner edge where the doorframe and wall meet. Then get to sanding and it might come closer to being flat. You might even be able to get the outer corner to run almost in a straight line. Then get some external undercoat/primer, paint it on with a slight overlap of not the old paint, then white outer coat; do you know what kind of paint that is by any chance?

Wet and dry sandpaper. Some sandpaper is dry only and will come apart if wet, wet n dry is designed to be used wet or dry and in this case I would use it wet.

Edit for more clarity; I would have a bucket of soapy warm water with me and would regularly dunk the sandpaper and clear it out so it doesn’t clog. Might not be needed, hard to tell how much sanding is needed from pics, but it will massively extend the life of the sandpaper and it’s effectiveness to keep it from getting full of gunk.

The right shape of hammer, a flatbar(like a crowbar but flat) or rounded pull pliers will all pull the nails with correct technique.

Difficult to see from this pic and angle. If it was me: I would get my mask on, spray the area with my spray bottle of water till it’s getting drippy and then use wet wet’n’dry to flatten it off with a vacuum in my other hand very close to catch as much crap as possible. Then put a rendering compound over it and fair it off so everything is covered but doesn’t look too lumpy. Then I would leave and wait a day. Come back in with mask on, damp cloth and bucket of soapy water, wipe everything down from top to bottom, then mop the floor and let it all dry then vacuum everything. After that use my finger to find if there’s any residue, human finger can feel stuff at tiny micron levels. If it feels grainy I would vacuum again and then wipe down with acetone maybe? Obviously goes without saying but just in case; I would take anything with complicated surfaces/ a high human interaction object out before starting and if there’s anything that is going to be an issue to clean that can’t be removed I would cover it in a dust sheet and tape it down, then dispose of the dust sheet once done. I don’t recommend this cowboy approach to life, if you think it might be asbestos best to get it tested, but I am fairly old and my job means I am always exposed to all kinds of terrible particles and chemicals so I tend to be quite lessezfaire about stuff, I mask up with appropriate filters and get stuck in because While I DO enjoy life immensely I have no plans to get out of it alive anyway.