Disc shaped, rather than spherical.

"Hey", I said "You can keep my things, they've come to take me home"

Nah... I present the even lazier way:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=pc+fan+power+supply&sprefix=pc+fan+power+%2Caps%2C162&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_13

That is the ramblings of a madman.

Tactile transducer.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tactile_transducer

https://www.google.com/search?q=tactile+transducer&sxsrf=AJOqlzVR3vqd1K4goMT0JtuemFGzGIvHNg:1677058899503&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi8nuOf66j9AhX3QEEAHVs2A3YQ_AUoAXoECAEQAw&biw=1536&bih=818&dpr=1.25

It can give rise to the interestingly named 'alien hand syndrome' where one hand takes on a personality and life of its own.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alien_hand_syndrome

The theory is that the muscle contraction pulls your hand / arm away from the electrified thing you touched, rather than pushing you on to it.

'Sheriff', in this particular context would be functionally the same as 'judge'. It's a bit strange how words here sometimes work when involving the legal system.

The article is poorly and vaguely written, like so much of our newspaper output here.

It doesn't say that he got the 75 hours 'for' farting at a policeman - and I'd struggle to say what specific offense it would be, and - in order to be sentenced for the farting it would need to be an articulable, specific crime.

But he crashed a car - which isn't an offense in and of itself - and then blazed a joint in front of the police, which of course is.

If I were ascribing more intelligence to him than perhaps he deserves, I could contrive that he was driving stoned (which is considered a serious offense, particularly in light of the crash), and he concluded that by smoking in front of the police, he could claim that he was not stoned whilst driving, but that he became so afterwards. There's nothing to gain from the police doing a post-accident drug test under those circumstances as it won't fly in court for a drug-driving charge.

More likely though, he was just a belligerent bell-end and got what was coming.

I did a fire extinguisher course at work a few years back. It was an enormous eye opener for me.

We built fires, out in the car park. Then we got to use a whole bunch of extinguishers on them.

Holy shit. We'd all massively misjudged how well each type would work.

Water: Awesome for most fires (don't use it on burning liquids). Really made a huge difference.

Foam: Not bad for burning solid stuff. Worked really quite well on a quart of burning petrol (gasoline).

Dry powder: Worked well to put out petrol. Also worked well to make it hard to see (outdoors). If you use one in a confined space, you'd better have a good recollection of where the door is to leave, 'cos you ain't going to be able to see your way there. Won't stick to a vertical surface that's on fire.

CO2: If you want to blow burning embers of paper and cardboard everywhere, accept no substitute. If you want to put out a burning solids fire, don't pull the pin, instead use the base of the extinguisher to beat the flames out. You get only a few seconds of CO2, and it's SHOCKINGLY loud in a confined space. I had almost zero success with CO2 - in a controlled environment, with no risk to personal safety, and having had verbal instruction just seconds before.

Funner fact: NTSC is 59.94 fields / 29.97 frames per second, not 24.

Is this the type of lamp it takes?

https://www.cromptonlamps.com/Catalogue/Compact-Fluorescent/D-Type-PLC/CFL-Double-Turn-D-Type-13W-3500K-G24d-1-2-Pin-CLD13SW

It seems a really odd type of lamp for that type of fitting, but that's all I can translate the 13w G24D to.

If it is, you might be stuck with the power supply you've got, as it's a fluorescent ballast and not a transformer.

That said, it all comes down to how much effort you want to put in. It wouldn't be that hard to convert it to an LED fitting, but would involve some cutting and drilling and fitting a different lamp holder.

You'd still need a plug-top style power supply, and I'm not sure that the end result would be that much smaller than what you have at present.

You'll likely run into problems trying to do that with a modern toaster.

The last few I've seen in bits use a resistive tap off the heating element to provide 12v power for the control PCB.

If you reduce the power to the heating element (by whatever means - triac dimmer, Variac etc) you'll proportionately reduce the 12v going to the control PCB.

A small change in voltage won't be a problem, but if you're going to aim for 50% or the like, the control PCB won't work, and the latch function which holds the mechanism down won't work, so no power at all to the element, no toasting.

If you were going to go all-out, then a triac type lighting dimmer with sufficient power handling (my guess is 1kw - 2kw depending on the toaster size), and an external 12v transformer for the control board would do it.

This would be tricky to fit within the limited spare space in the housing.

This is the correct way to implement a permanent repair.

It's a case of re-purposing a cheap readily available item.

If you got hold of an old desktop fan (with the oscillation function), removed the blades and MacGuyvered the fan to the floor and the chair, would that work?

It'd give a spookily slow rock, which might be good, might be bad...

Your link is to mild steel. That's not iron - the distinction is important.

You are using the wrong disc, based on your links.

The discs you've linked are for stainless, not mild steel.

Basically the different types of disc use a different binder (glue) which holds the abrasive particles together. The idea is for the disc to wear down just slightly faster than it builds up metal particles, so it doesn't clog.

You might recover the disc if you did a heavy (push hard) series of cuts on a couple of bits of scrap metal. It'll clog again though.

Continuing to use it as-is is dangerous as the heat generated by the rubbing action of the clogged disc will eventually cause the binder to break down and chunks of the edge of the disc will be ejected at high speed.

Whatever you decide to do, in terms of trying to recover the disc you have, you must have the guard in place (and correctly positioned) because there's a non-zero risk of bits of the disc coming off.

There's a reasonable argument that can be made for binning that disc (because it'll only clog again) and buying the right type for the metal you're cutting.

I have a similar door, and had the same problem.

My fix was to put spacers between the door and the roller-things screwed to it that roll along the track. This pushed the door forwards 6mm and perfectly solved the problem.

Also, cover the bit of the rail you want to keep to avoid surface finish damage from hot sparks. Tape is fine, aluminium foil is fine.