rvgoingtohavefun

rvgoingtohavefun t1_jeam30z wrote

I'd be sure it isn't actually just wired dumb. Look at what you have in the box for the ceiling fan and for the lights. There may be a way around it. If you haven't cracked the boxes open you can't know for sure.

If smart bulbs don't do it for you, there are devices that install inline with a fan/light combo to control them separately with a remote. It is typically used for cases where a single switch controlled a light and fan combo. The thing (typically) would install in the fan canopy.

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rvgoingtohavefun t1_ja9gs2j wrote

You could set it at 0.02 or 0.20 and it's the same don't-give-a-shit group of idiots that are going to drive drunk. Generally you aren't taking a breathalyzer before you get behind the wheel, and 0.05 is still plenty dangerous.

Something like 1/3 are repeat offenders and it's full of motherfuckers driving really fucking drunk, like 0.2 or higher.

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rvgoingtohavefun t1_iyefwf2 wrote

Reply to comment by lightknight7777 in Lightbulb not working by BSPirat

We're talking about light fixtures, here, or, at least, I thought we were. You said "deal with twisting those wirenuts at the top of a ladder", and most appliances (other than light fixtures, which I assumed you were referring to) aren't installed in a location that requires a ladder.

That first video is installing a stove/oven plug or dryer plug or something. I didn't really watch it. I'm not sure what you're getting at with that.

The second video is installing a fixture (that already uses flexible lamp cord) and plugging it into an extension cord (note that using an extension cord for permanently-installed fixtures is also not allowed, but that's not what we're talking about anyway).

We were talking about things that otherwise required wire nuts and were at the top of a ladder, so I presumed we were talking about normal light fixtures.

If you're putting a female end on the wires up in the ceiling and burying it INSIDE a junction box, that's not allowed.

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rvgoingtohavefun t1_iye0h7z wrote

Reply to comment by lightknight7777 in Lightbulb not working by BSPirat

I'm fairly certain what you're describing isn't legal at all.

It's supposed to be a secure mechanical connection. A plug that can pull itself apart sure isn't a secure mechanical connection. You may also be overfilling the box, which is a fire hazard in its own right. You can get arcing or excess heat (without excess current draw) which could cause a fire without ever actually tripping the breaker.

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rvgoingtohavefun t1_iydhgjd wrote

Reply to comment by lightknight7777 in Lightbulb not working by BSPirat

This type of wiring is actually quite common in older homes in the US as well and is why smart switches say "neutral required." There isn't always a neutral at the switch, depending on how it was wired.

You can run the power to the switch (neutral, hot, ground) switch the hot, and then run the neutral, switched hot, and ground to the fixture. This is probably what you're accustomed to.

You can run the power to the fixture, then run a 3 conductor (plus ground) cable to the switch. The white is unused for a standard switch. Black is hot, red is the output of the switch.

In the bad old days, you could run the power to the fixture, then run a 2 conductor (plus ground) cable to the switch and just switch the hot off and on. Assuming black/white conductors, the black is hot, the white is the output of the switch. There is no neutral at the switch. This is not allowed by code any longer. This is more or less what you see here.

In the picture, you can see there are three groups of screw terminals. The wires within each group are connected internally by that plate.

The left group (blue, two blacks) is the neutral, continuing the circuit for the next fixture (black) and connecting to the lamp (blue).

The middle group (red) is the hot.

The right group (black, brown) is the return from the switch.

In this setup, replacing the fixture just requires undoing the screws for blue and brown, removing the wires under them, putting the wires for the new fixture in the newly opened slots, and tightening the screws. It's no more complicated than anything you'd see in the US, arguably less so than anything involving wirenuts, especially if the power goes to the fixture first.

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rvgoingtohavefun t1_iuhzsex wrote

These are pretty common under sinks and for toilets here. I can't say I've encountered a sink or toilet without them.

The older ones are all gate valves; they leak if you close them and open them again, much like a regular seldom-used gate valve would do. I don't trust them.

To avoid hassle I turn off the nearest inline ball valve. If there is a threaded gate valve at the fixture, I'll replace it with a ball valve style. Generally if I'm replacing some at-fixture plumbing I'm not interested in having to sweat anything to get the job done.

Every time I shut off a gate valve it ends up leaking when I turn it back on and I have to replace it. I have an couple extra ball valves laying around in case I decide I'm a fucking idiot and turn one of the gate valves off.

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rvgoingtohavefun t1_ish87sb wrote

Reply to comment by KPT in New homeowner internet struggles by KCDPT

The last time I had cable a shitload of it was encrypted and the broadcast channels and some other shit wasn't. You could get it with the digital tuner without the STB.

If everything is encrypted, though, there is no need for a filter OR to disconnect it at the tap.

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rvgoingtohavefun t1_isg0gj7 wrote

There is a 0% chance it can work without them at all, but that's because (minimally) they need to provision it on their end for the modem to function. It may be connected at the tap.

I've definitely moved into places and the cable was still connected at the tap. One of them had been vacant for months. There was a filter on it so that it didn't get cable TV but I could get the internet connection on it immediately, since that had to be provisioned on their end anyway.

I'd imagine you'd have to put a filter on it for internet-only customers, no?

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