sdfree0172

sdfree0172 t1_j26m4dz wrote

I can tell just from the lighting that I won’t like it. The scenes all look like theyre filmed on a holiwood set at high noon. No dirt, no darkness, none of the grime of life. The characters look like some child’s interpretation of what medieval life was like - perfect teeth, clean clothes, everyone is well educated, etc. it could be the best writing ever done and I still doubt I could like it.

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sdfree0172 t1_j1gjjti wrote

I think hhhqqqqq1209 gets that. It’s that the 46 billion light years it takes for you to cross the universe is only from the perspective of an observer from earth. However, time is compressed for the traveler as you travel near the speed of light and it is compressed infinitely at the speed of light. So, as the one traveling, you would not experience any time passing and arrive instantaneously (assuming infinite acceleration and deceleration, of course!).

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sdfree0172 t1_j0cuwr7 wrote

You’re dangerously close to asking if Lamarckian evolution is correct, which was disproven in favor of darwinian. But I think youre asking something a little more nuanced, about whether affected DNA gets passed on. And that only happens if your sperm/egg is affected And is based solely on how the sperm/egg is affected. Otherwise dna changes stay local and don’t pass. So, you would never see any visible mutation passed on.

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sdfree0172 t1_izc6ie1 wrote

To add on to this, mudding done right should only require a light sanding on the very last coat and none on each of the initial passes. it took 10 years for me to get this right as a DIYer. Some tricks: As said above, do thin passes between drying. Better to add to little than too much. As the mud is drying, when it’s firm but not hard, you can hit it with a wet sponge to to level out a mistake. Also, it’s okay to leave little ridges in the mud. You can scrape these off pretty easy with the putty knife. Anyway, no big deal if you need to sand a lot, but it’s good to know that done right, there’s almost no sanding involved.

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sdfree0172 t1_iynxc39 wrote

Well, it probably isn’t a real good idea to DIY, but if I were to give it a go, I’d rent a mini-backhoe (lots of companies in the US rent these, not sure where you’re from). I’d dig down and around the footing, then I’d use the backhoe to push the column into position to hold it there while filling the hole with additional concrete. Probably $700 or so and two days effort. But, again, not sure I’d try this. Lots to go wrong.

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sdfree0172 t1_iybubhk wrote

I’ve done this sort of repair using base and then finish plaster. You could also use drywall and drywall compound. That’s not your biggest issue. The biggest issue is matching the texture thats on the wall. You’ll likely never get it to look completely right. Aprofessional will probably tell you the same. be prepared to either skim the whole wall or accept a bit of a flawed look on a repair. Sorry. Textured plaster sucks to repair.

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sdfree0172 t1_iwepaa8 wrote

Inside houses, there’s lower moisture in the winter often which causes wood to contract and higher moisture in the summer causing wood to swell. If it worked 9 months ago at the end of the dry season (from a house perspective), try waiting a few months to see if it improves. If it does, it’s moisture related and that will be important to know. If you fix it now, it may not work when the wood contracts again.

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sdfree0172 t1_iwdx24x wrote

This is US data, I assume. Hard to show mean incomes in the US. The cost of living and wages change a lot based on location. DC and San Fran are not at all similar to Biloxi, MI or Gary, IN - like over 2x salary difference. In DC, no engineer would earn anything on this list for the most part. I can’t even hire new grads for under $80k in engineering.

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sdfree0172 t1_it86i9o wrote

slide flashing under the existing flashing and overhang the other side of it into the gutter to make sure water runs into the gutter and not into that rotted section. That'll buy you some time. Then wait for a roofer / contractor to fix the rot.

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