skydiver1958 t1_jegq4dd wrote

Looks like some kind of vinyl wallpaper behind a stove top. Not sure what genius thought that was a good idea but pretty much non repairable. You need a heat proof material there like tile or metal.

There is no seamless patch. This is all wrong above a cook top.


skydiver1958 t1_jegmg78 wrote

If I was you do the wallpaper and paint then do the wall mold. No reason to make it more difficult. You may have the odd touch ups to do but that's better than trying to cut a paint line to the wall mold


skydiver1958 t1_jec0d30 wrote

What most people don't know about score and snap with cement board is there is one side only for the score. Still hard on knife blades but if you score on I believe the backside you get a better result.

Yes you could use a saw but of course a disposable blade and use a cheap saw you aren't attached to. The dust may fuck it up


skydiver1958 t1_je76hrc wrote

1 and 2 foot levels are not the tools for longer runs. When doing fence posts or door frames you need a 6' level.

As for the Pythagorean theorem? I use it all the time as a reno carpenter and works great for me when need be. And I failed math.

Most people that tackle DIY think carpentry is easy and why do they charge?

Well we charge like any other trade. Years of experience and thousands in tools. All the right tools. You can not use a small level for door installs or fence posts.

Don't get me wrong. I'm all for DIY and learning but it comes at a cost. The cost is the learning curve and more important the right tools.

This shit was not that easy to me 40 years ago but dead simple now. I do without thinking.

Keep at it. You will get better. But you need the right tools. And this is what a lot DiYers don't get. You can not do a good build without the right tools. So you need to spend money to save money. And practice. Keep the renos simple and learn as you go.


skydiver1958 t1_jcum9hc wrote

Anything is fixable. Myself it's a new door because although with some talent and time I may get the grain to look good but I wouldn't waste the time myself. But hey have a go at it.

Now what you should have done was pry the door stop off. Ya you would have had a bit of touching up to do but it would have given clear access to the strike to slide it back.


skydiver1958 t1_ja5d01q wrote

So here is the thing. A house from that era may have aluminum wires( and even if copper the workmanship was shit back then.

Been working on older houses like this for 40 years as a reno carpenter. I know all the basics but do I do it? No. We only have qualified electricians do the work. The same with gas fitting or plumbing.

I'm ok with DIY but know when to say when. Sorry but a house of that vintage needs a good go over by a pro.


skydiver1958 t1_ja599s9 wrote

All standard dishwashers need a 24" space. If the cabinet is a 24" cabinet then yes you can fit it. Wider will work with creative work but less than 24" won't for a standard DW

Most cabinets are boxes screwed to the wall and screwed to each other. And maybe some screws into counter top. As long as you have 24" then yes knock that box out and use a gable against the fridge for support. You need 24" clear is really all you need to know.


skydiver1958 t1_j8f2ou6 wrote

Those flex connectors don't require tape. They have a rubber seal and only need finger tight plus a quarter turn or so. It's possible the tape is preventing it from going far enough to hit the rubber seal. OR you cranked it too tight and effed up the seal. Take tape off. Look at rubber o ring inside. If it looks ok install properly( no tape) and check. If you get any drips carefully tighten more a bit at a time. If it still leaks go buy another flex hose. 5 year apprentice ship to learn how to attach braided lines LOL


skydiver1958 t1_j7zzfio wrote

I learned long ago that anything is possible. I would need pics to give you advice but short answer for now is you can't cram a 24" door into a 24" hole without some cutting of the door


skydiver1958 t1_j6jp2so wrote

Ya brock is right. Just make sure the upper cabinet is screwed to the wall good as it really holds a lot of the weight. Use butterfly anchors where you can't hit studs on the back bracket. But if you feel better putting a piece of blocking from the back side for sure is easy and won't hurt. If it was me and I could add blocking easily I would but hung many of these on single stud and anchors without issue


skydiver1958 t1_j64ucy0 wrote

Can you remove doors and fit new ones in existing jambs? Yes but you need to measure and make sure the new ones are the exact same height and width and thickness. You will need slabs as any pre hung there is no guarantee hinge slots and knob holes are in the right spots

Ok so say you have a standard 30x 80 inch door. Well you can use the old door as a template for hinge slots and knob holes. But still might have to do some planing or sanding as you really have no idea what was done to make the old ones fit. But say you get a decent fit. Quite often you need to remove and reset the door stops as they are set to the slight warps of the old one and the new one might not hit right.I've done a lot of doors and sometimes they go smooth and other times you spend time playing around to get a good fit.

So as long as you are replacing a standard size with the same it shouldn't be too hard. Most can be more or less plug and play but there is always at least that "one". GL


skydiver1958 t1_j4rba6x wrote

Ballpark would be hard without knowing what size etc.

But with a little research on prices you can get a good idea. Just measure the square footage you need for drywall and insulation. Add some footage for DW waste. There you go you have that cost.

Now figure out what you will need for electrical and where. Get a quote from electrician. Now you have that cost. Add in drywall mud and paint cost. Cost for lights you will be using etc. etc.

Just try and figure out all the stuff you will need and with a little time on a HD site you will have all your DIY costs.

Your electrical is the wild card. You can diy some of the electrical(drilling holes and pulling wires etc.) to save costs but you should have an electrician do all hookups. They are also great at pointing out things you may have not thought of. Most in the trade will work with you that way.

But remember it is ballpark. There will always be extras that you never thought of or say a structural issue you didn't know about.

You shouldn't have a problem getting a ball park. Just leave room for any unforeseens. One would be you find out mudding drywall isn't your thing so now you have to hire out.

Finishing a garage is pretty straight forward so your ball park should be close


skydiver1958 t1_j2fxe0c wrote

When the wife was pregnant and went into a long labor I took 3 days off. This was in the 1980's.

I went back after 3 days and the Gm called me in asking why I was gone. I explained then he said "well in my time we didn't take time off for that".

I FUCKING laughed in his face then pulled out a pay stub. The pay stub was from Gerber baby foods.

I did not give notice and I did leave the company without a guy to supply the line.

Gerber baby food company giving me shit for time off for child birth. Douche bags


skydiver1958 t1_j2bh0ix wrote

No it's not that bad. I've done two house renos with bad painted popcorn with patches and we had a guy that troweled on drywall mud (2 or 3 coats) and sanded and painted. Smooth as silk. It's messy but not nearly as messy as scraping and turns out 100%. Too often people take the hard way when there really is an easier solution.